AmirShahzad.PK

Thanks. I will check it out. May be. Yes, hard to find if you do not know the proper name.

OK but if suppose an ideal situation then what will happen to the body experiencing no gravitational force? Yes but if suppose an ideal situation then what will happen to the body experiencing no gravitational force?

Recently I have been told that Science has been able to produce effect in the body that will allow light to pass through and do not return back may be through some clothes or any thing else. Is this really true. I am not able to came with some recent results by Googling.

I do not know much of Astronomy but this felt a interesting question to me posed by my cousin. My cousin wanted me to think on it but I enjoy and prefer discussions more than just doing it alone. As far as I know, when we walk or run on earth, we apply force against gravity. I read Newton`s third law of action and reaction in my School and college and that also applies here but I want to keep it simple. Also, jet rising up from the earth also work against gravity. All of these requires force against gravity but is this possible to reduce or even finish this gravity. I am not talking about doing this to the whole earth but some thing like a person wearing a specific clothes or something else do not get affected by gravity? Share your ideas about it. What would happen to such person who is not affected by gravity at all. Will he be able to stand on earth or will be attracted by other bodies in our galaxy? Or he will be able to jump high like people did in the moon.

I choose "Custom Wordpress Theme" as study project. I started working on "SRS" as it is due Tue 4 Aug, 2015. Just wanted to discuss because it will further enhance my work but not sure how would I do so? Publicly pasting my work will open the risk of being copied. Right now, I am finished with doing "Scope of Project" and "Functional and non Functional Requirements". Next will be "Use Case Diagram(s)" and will be dependent on preceding steps. Just wanted someone to review my work and I move forward. Unfortunately, there could be no one except internet whom I can show my work.

Al right. Thanks. I will discussing this on Pakistani Forum and hope will be able to be clear about it. Mean 50+ A charger would be suitable?

Not sure whether it is a good inverter or not but it is modified sine wave. I am using it from October 2014 and since then one of my PC supply has been spoiled. It was an exceptional case and happened after my stabilizer stopped working correctly. I am sorry I have not mentioned in the above diagram but UPS will not be getting any power from the mains so only one charger will be charging the battery. I don't think that my UPS does.

True This is true I want to stabilize my voltage to 220 Yes my main voltage varies and 180 is not the lowest limit. Today, it has dropped as low as < 90 VAC I need to supply equipment within 1000 VA range. Equipment are: 1 - Energy Savers 2 - Fans 3 - PC along with Lcd 4 - Laptop 5- mobile chargers 6 - Mortein lamps 7 - 350 watts juicer sometime mostly in day. Off course, I do not use all these things at once as my inverter is only 600 watts but my load is not more than 300 watts usually. Juicer is mostly run for 5 - 10 minutes and at that time I try to minimize other load to ensure that load do not cross 600 watts limit. When power goes off then my inverter starts to give backup and it give volts > 220. At that voltage all my fans run with fast speed but when light came back then inverter continue supplying main voltage as is and fans run too slowly and I feel annoyed by this difference so I believe 220 is critical so that I do not feel any difference in main as well as inverter mode. I am not sure whether my devices are in 10 amp range or not because I do not understand amps system, only understand watts system my home wiring only has two cables no earth. I am not sure whether this is against Pakistan electrical codes as my home wiring is so old and also I have seen new wiring around me which are also two wired only i.e. no earth. Pakistan was founded in 1947 so this 1937 codes might not be applicable. I already have inverter. It has two charging modes narrow and wide. In narrow charging mode, It charges battery and supply voltage as coming from mains if the voltage is >= 170 VAC but below that it provide 220+ VAC from the battery but do not charge the battery. This is the drawback. I am also thinking of charging my UPS battery separately using a separate charger and try to provide 12 V to UPS through this charger and supply no input to UPS. In this way ups will always work in backup mode always and supply 220+ but wonder this modified sine wave from the ups always would be dangerous for my appliances? Does stabilizer output pure sine wave? Just have a look and tell whether is this possible?

Ok. Thanks. This was what the second repair person told me and he used Variac Transformer to set this screw like things (potentiometers?). When I told him about my voltage condition then he told me that this unit will work only at 180 Vac. So he called it useless for me. Can you suggest some stabilizer or regular which give constant 220?

Oh, I see but I was believing it will output exact 220 V irrespective of input voltage fluctuations within the specified range. No indicator light blows only when unit is working and indicator meters show voltage at input level and voltage at output level. No. When connected my UPS from it, it worked as its LCD was showing volts but not 220 but when connected electric iron, it didn't work even indicator light didn't blew. At the same time when I tried on normal socket, electric iron worked. To be honest, I didn't notice the voltage when connected electric iron but input and output meter was showing voltage. Ok I will. Sorry about that and reply to important question is "Usually I noticed below 180 VAC as summer here and voltage is mostly low and it was giving same voltage on output e.g if 179 VAC on input then same on output as I am able to guess from analog meters".

What do you mean by a flat battery? But how do I know that battery is charged up to 80% now and discharged to 20% now? It is hard to keep such care. My windows system do not give any notification when battery is fully charged but I can know from laptop led indicator but it gives notification when battery is discharged to 10%. Yes, I also believe the same. The reason of my battery being killed is of heat because it`s summer here. Now I started using cooler pad with my laptop by connecting USB cable in to it. Although it make laptop heavy and uncomfortable to taken in lap but I am doing it for summer and might not do same in winter. I already have sent my 9 cell battery in warranty and currently running old 6 cell came with laptop. You might be surprised but I purchased this laptop (used) in October 2014 and it came with 6 cell battery. Battery was providing me with 2 hours backup until I was fully charging followed by fully discharging but when I started keeping it plugged all the time then battery started losing capacity and now it doesn't even give a backup of 20 minutes even. Even laptop bios give a notification of replacing battery. Yes I have visited this website before purchasing laptop and not able to reach on some conclusion. Still confused, how should we use batteries? I talked to hp support personell and they too recommended me fully charging followed by discharging but they recommended me not to use modified sine wave Uninterrupted power supply unit but unfortunately I have this type of unit at my home. This is what a new and old laptop seller and repair person of my city told me but still not sure what is reality. No I didn't use it on this version of windows. Also, battery low time along with calibrating messages guarantees fault.

I called local office in my city and they told me it`s single phase but they were not able to confirm about frequency. My electricity company website is http://www.pesco.gov.pk/. This might help you. Yes. Here are they BTW, sorry for using Dropbox again but I am not able to post these too photos on this forum. Off course single phase as local electricity office told me. I see. Agree No No Thanks for the tests but I require digital multi meter as well as other things to do this. I just inquired by calling and they only offered me analog multi meter for about 3$ and I can replace whole circuit of my unit including identical relays for 4$ including 1$ service. If I go for 30 A relays then it will charge me 5$ including service charges. Now I believe it would be better if I take this unit again to repair person and try by replacing circuit. As I believe, there are only two main parts in this unit, transformer and this circuit and I wish transformer would be alright. If it develops some fault then I might have to bear costs equal to buying new unit. Just a suggestion Which stabilizer should I buy if I want a constant 220 V irrespective of fluctuations in mains voltage? Voltage may drop to as low as 100 V or even low and not sure about high voltage limit. Sorry about that but I am having problem to upload so much photos to this forum so that`s why went with Dropbox. But this is opposed to what it says on it`s front plate That`s sad. This unit must output 220 V irrespective of fluctuations from 90 V - 250 V. If it cannot do this then it`s useless for me. Yes I tried to rotated screw like things shown below clockwise and anti clockwise. It now only gives output equal to input. It gives power but 1000 W electric iron didn't work on it as I tested. Input and output voltage respectively Both were showing same voltage Didn't try and I only have energy savers at my home.

Good Yes I have 2 terminal electricity at my home Line and Neutral Sorry not sure what do you mean? W socket is something like this but it have two sockets, one 2 terminal socket and one 3 terminal socket. I believe ground in this would be unconnected as my electricity is is only two terminal. The unit I am trying to repair would be A and it has two wires The inverter or ups whom I want to supply reliable voltage from Unit A is unit B has 3 wires and unit A has 3 terminal socket in it from which B connects. The load or C unit have 1 wire (Line) but it connects from ups 3 terminal socket using 3 terminal plug and neutral and earth are unconnected in this plug. Load C is actually ups or inverter wiring for running home energy savers, fans and sockets. You can learn more about it here My unit A may be a line conditioner. As I could understand, line conditioner do a lot more than just maintaining constant voltage but not sure whether my unit A do all of the functions described. Anyhow, my unit A is a local Pakistani Stablizer. Although, I am not able to track my product online but here is similar local products

That`s great. After all, I said something useful I am sorry about that. This might be my habit but I always clarify that this is my belief and may not be true. I will try to take care of it in future. Thanks for pointing out. Thanks.

I am not talking about changing fuse as shown here 1 2 3 but talking about changing relays. Currently there are two relays. Each one is H200Fd12-10A also shown in here. I talked to one of the best electrical equipment whole sale dealer in my city and he said these can be replaced by maximum up to 30A (As these are the maximum relays he have. And also this is not inverter, a stabilizer. Got it. Thanks. Understood that this circuit has capacitors, resistors and diodes but not understand RC timing circuits and pulse generation chips. See I have labeled my circuit I believe though not sure that 2nd repair person used Oscilloscope on my stabilizer. He checked by varying input voltages and later concluded that this stabilizer will only stablize voltage >= 180 Vac Ok so those screw like things are actually are used to adjust resistors. I visited your given link and recalled my subject of PHY301 : Circuit Theory To be honest, I did not take this subject seriously. How can I know whether it is solid state or electromagnetical relay? Understood one thing here the one I labeled as diode in this might be transistor? if yes then where is diode in this circuit? It is tough that`s why 2 repair person have not been able to repair it I connected 1000 watts electric iron and it`s indicator light didn't light up instead of my trying 2-3 times but when I tried same iron on normal power, it worked. Imini inverter expects voltage between 170 Vac - 280 Vac in narrow mode and 90 Vac - 280 Vac in wide mode. Already provided above and no it aspects AC. I rather should say it is a uninterruptible power supply but not sure why they have written inverter on it`s packing? You might be understanding it as a inverter which convert Batteries power to Ac and batteries require separate charger to be charged but this is full unit. It has built in 10A or 20 A (adjustable) charger, I have connected 100 Amp lead acid battery to it. When there is electric power it charges the battery and also provide ac to the home as in mains (no stabilizing) but when the electric power is cut off it provide 220+ voltage converting DC from the battery connected. I want to provide AC power to this inverter from a stabilizer because it do no stabilize in main mode, only stabilize in backup mode. I think I have answered it. Sorry about that but I hope I will be able to make it clear. Also, replied to Mordred so you can see answers to you concerns. When I started this topic, I tried uploading 9 photos but failed three times to started using Dropbox and still doing will try to use forum for any other photos. I have tried and to be honest, I am not expert with it and this may not be something you are expecting. I believe problem is in this circuit with relays, capacitors and resistors etc but not sure. I have tried to follow Mordred and tried 1000 electric iron on it but even the indicator light of electric iron did not light up and when I tried in normal socket, it worked. I have connected input of Imini inverter (UPS) to this stablizer and that Imini inverter (UPS) has lcd which shows input volts, output volts along with battery power, load and inverter mode. Main mode and backup mode. So I determined voltage from that lcd and also from analog meters in stabilizer.

Agree but I am curious to learn. No. Only tester, screw drivers and hand tool. As already told Studiot, I only have maximum 600 watts load for this stabilizer right now. I am sorry to make you uncomfortable but I do not touch things without having proper knowledge. No not familiar with PWM. 1) Don't think so as only one fuse and seems Ok to me. Please see here 1 2 3 2) Not sure about that. 3) Yes it is generating power but I only so far put a load of 600 watts i.e running inverter . 4) It has only one light and I used to blink and there were sparking below the relay but it has stopped after I have shown it to the second repairing person. 5) No. 6) I believe there was smell when was the case 4. 7) Output voltage is same as input voltage or even less than that. 8) No. 9) No. 10) I visited manufacturer and no longer manufacture stabilizers as I could find. Ok. (No no capacitors are deformed. Please see this. There are total 4 capacitors I can see, 2 blue and two black. I have already shown it to 2 repair persons, first one did soldering below the relay to stop sparking and also tried to increase amperes (as he told) by rotating screw like things below the circuit on which two relays are affixed. He rotated one screw maximum to the clockwise and other to the anti clockwise. At his shop voltage crossed 230 V and when I came home it was giving less than 220 so I tried to play with these screw like things but soon I got sparking problem again and also screws rotating stopped showing any results. Second day I took it to other person which is also a ups maker. I wanted him to adjust these screw settings and also told the sparking problem, He also soldered below the relay to stop sparking and adjusted these screw like things. I suggested him to move one screw maximum clockwise and other anticlockwise but he said in that way it would work improperly and way I set this would work properly. He also said that this stabilizer will only work if the voltage is 180 V otherwise not. He also called this stabilizer as use less. Voltage at my home in summer nights can even drop to 100 V and this stabilizer must give 220 output even if the voltage is 90 V or more. So far I have been able to device that problem is only with this circuit. Please see photos . Either in the circuit, relays or screw like things need to be adjusted. I will get it done from some repairing person but I want to learn what will be the effect if I replace two 10 A relays with 30 A replays (that is the maximum relays available here) and should I also change this circuit? Teach me about this screw like things setting so that I can make this stabilizer to output 220 even if the voltage is =<90 V. I say again, I will not touch stabilizer again before discussing here even if it takes a lot of time. Apart from this stabilizer, I also have two malfunctioned flash lights, a PC power supply, a small cassette player and a vcd player but don't know why I am so curious to learn these things just for the sake of fun. I didn't touch those things so for and will only touch after discussing. I do not have time to learn from some repairing person so that`s why joined this forum to learn. I am sorry for making you uncomfortable in any way but I will follow you as well as other expert guys advice here. Unfortunately, I do not have this stabilizer packing as I purchased it in 2010. The only info I can find on it`s body is here I am really sorry about that page but that page works fine at my end. You can see that inverter details by watching and seeing this photos My issue is that I am not getting consistent 220 V and stabilizer`s output voltage is same as input. Not sure what do you mean by "why you have apparantly connected the outputs of two electrical devices together in opposition"? I tried to power inverter from this stabilizer so that it can get 220 V but as inverter lcd show voltage is not 220 V. As written on it`s body front it should be 4166.666666666667 VA as I know that 1000 VA = 600 watts and it is 2500 watts. I need to run 1000 VA inverter on this stabilizer so I am fine even if it`s capacity is half than mentioned on it. Yes I also believe that it is a relay type transformer as people on one of Pakistani forum told me.

Not exactly sure what do you mean by broken? I believe it has fault because as shown on it`s front , It must get 90 - 250 VAC and must output 220 V but it`s not doing that. It`s output is same as the input or even less than input. Sorry but again I am not exactly sure what do you mean by under load and on load. I am trying to run 600 watts Inverter on it and it can support up to 2500 watts but I currently do not have more load for it. Yes, I know this is dangerous. I even got shock 2-3 times while trying change amperes on it`s circuit to get 220 V. Please see this to know how I was increasing amperes. I was taught increasing amperes by one refrigerator repair person.

It came with 6 cell battery. Battery was giving backup of maximum 2 hours. It worked fine for me until I was charging followed by fully discharging when I started always plugging and only discharging one time per day. Battery reduced backup time so much that I have to purchase new one. I wanted to purchase 12 cell battery but only 9 cell was available for this model so I went with that. I purchased in March 2015. When brought home, battery was working fine and giving backup of 3+ hours but battery used to show problem of "Caliberate" after some time and my fully discharging solved it but now this problem is not being solved. Please see recently checked status of the battery and battery backup is now not more than an hour. I have been fully charging followed by fully discharging this battery. Possible reasons I believe are: 1) The battery has some problem from the start as it used to show caliberate issue often. 2) I am using modified sine wave inverter at home and that voltage might be damaging laptop battery. Also posted it on Hp forum but so far got no reply

Want to learn how a 2500 watts PEL Hi-Power electronic stabilizer works? It does not provide 220 volts although values mentioned on it are as: Input = 90V - 250V Output = 220V I opened it and it has two meters which show input and output voltages. It has a transformer (not sure step up or down). It has a circuit which have 2 10A relays. Relays number is H200Fd12-10A. This circuit also have two rotating screw like things which can be adjusted to increase amperes or decrease amperes as one of person while repairing told me. The problem I believe is with this circuit. I am ready to change whole circuit along with relays. The maximum size relay I can get is 30A relay. I already shown this stabilizer to 2 people but they were not able to mend it in satisfactory manner. So I decided to learn it myself so that I can repair it in satisfactory manner. See photos here Waiting for discussion, Amir