Jmanm

The DIY method uses a container of water with store brought Hydrochloric acid & chlorine in the right ratios, to permanently smooth the surface. As latex gets used over time it slowly gets scuffed by small wear & tear & the need to re-chlorinate is usually needed. However in the life of the rubber this method can't be done more than 2 maybe 3 times without discolouring dark colours & more than half a dozen times will turn the rubber brittle & weak presumably from the harsh chemicals. So a few questions: Can chlorine gas be used all by it self say in a industrial controlled way? If they had pure chlorine gas without the acid. If so would this type of chlorination be repeatable over & over without damaging the latex? thanks

Is it at all possible in theory to build entangled objects like this? Even if they lasted entangled for even just a billionth of a second. Just sounds like exaggerated theory bordering on sci-fi. I just wan't to know what he really means by entangled as I'm trying to understand the whole monogamy blackhole paradox.

Not sure what you exactly meant, but I tried vinegar straight on a cloth rubbing & it did not remove these water marks.

I was watching a video about Black holes, firewalls & EP=EPR with Leonard susskind, he mentions how in theory you could make two macroscopic objects that are entangled, by continually shooting off entangled pairs in opposite directions & then compressing the two masses of pairs. Or collecting up the emitted hawking radiation the original black hole has emitted & squeezing it down to a black hole so the original & new black hole are now entangled. Well that is what it sounded like to me. Is this kind of thing even possible? Can two large macroscopic objects be entangled? With everything I have read on entanglement it seems to apply only to small systems & small amounts of particles like pairs. If I misunderstood this please explain.

I have water drop marks on my glass windows on my car that are from presumably tape water (after a wash) & maybe the rain (as it sits outside). A few weeks after I already polished the previous grime & water marks off my glass to perfect clean look, the water marks are back again. They don't wash off with IPA or wax & grease remover which is mostly naphtha, despite a hard rubbing action. Again only an abrasive action of polishing gets the water marks off. Why is this? Anything that can be done to prevent them? I was hoping just a weekly soapy wash would be enough to remove them. thanks

Thanks for reply. You mentioned as it goes through the holes there is nothing there, this seems hard to grasp really. As it clearly exhibits a wave behavior that depends on the slits, so to me it looks like it is interating in someway with the material the slits are made of. Also what about the air molecules in the room? From the looks of diagrams the photon goes through a beam splitter but still really secretly in a straight line to the mirror. Like it always has 100% probability of hitting the mirror.

I have read the basics along with the interferometer experiment & feel I'm still not understanding it fully. I understand measurement collapses the wave behavior, but I can't see how the photon can just pass through both slits or a beam splitter presumably as a wave of some sort. Wouldn't the interaction with the actual slits itself qualify as measurement & prevent the interference pattern? Why does it pass through two slits which is matter as a wave yet the actual impact/detection on screen (which is also matter) is a point? Does this have to do with the direct angle it hits the screen? If so this would seem to really mean that passing through the slits it exhibits mostly but not entirely wave behavior & the opposite with detection on the screen. I understand the travelling particle is thought of as a wave or at least behaving like a wave. Once the photon leaves the beam splitter I don't understand this wave behavior really. How does it travel in a straight line between emission & detection if its a wave? When I see particle interactions, they seem to show the outgoing particles now fanning out behaving like a wave again and the angle could be any value, so just confused how it maintains a straight path? Finally, Is it possible that the wave while in transit is continuously interacting with the vacuum energy & other fields causing it to continually exist in a concrete way? thanks

Thanks guys. I don't think I will need to glue this now (fingers crossed). I found a way to help it stick by burning the rubber suction cup surface slightly with a lighter. After that the surface is high friction preventing it from slowly sliding down the windscreen. We just had 4 seasons in a week, hot & dry, wet & humid & cold etc. The mount seems to stick. However you can still pull it off the glass with enough pulling force by hand.

I'm about to glue my Ram X grip phone mount to my windscreen because it doesn't stick properly & have tried everything including a replacement suction cup, none works well. The whole mount just slides down the windscreen within an hour. I had in mind using something like 3M moisture curing urethane adhesive as that is what they use for gluing in windscreens to cars. It sounds like it will stick very well to the glass. I only have one shot at this so wanted to ask: For adhesion of rubber to the urethane glue should the rubber suction cup be roughed up with coarse sand paper or not? Could you think of a better adhesive or something in between the rubber & urethane? Would hot summer heat pose a problem with the rubber to urethane bond? I'm assuming the cup is simply rubber based on amazon reviewers calling it rubber, but there doesn't seem to be any info on what it really is. If you could help, thanks

Hi, Thats what I thought like swiss cheese that had hollows in it from inferior manufacturing. I forgot to add an important bit: When i first got this SS sheet it had a brushed smooth slightly reflective finish. And I straight away went to polish it up skipping the wet sand stage. The end result was an almost mirror sharp finish, but with a nice brush pattern still showing. And although you could shave in the reflection, there was no signs of the pits. Not sure if the pits were hidden among the remaining brush marks? But I doubt it as there were areas free of brush marks & perfect. Thanks. I will try some 316 when I track some down, most places that sell it tend to be big wholesalers. I think the automotive polishes have gotten this absolutely mirror like, no signs of any visible fine scratches.

I polished up a sheet of grade 304 that had a brushed appearance. First I wet sanded the surface with 1200grit sand paper to remove these machine brush marks & then machine polished to a mirror gloss using automotive type compound. After the wet sand marks were removed it become clear there was a problem. Although it was like a mirror, tiny specs that looked like metallic flake in a car paint job were visible, on close inspection they are tiny shallow holes. No amount of polishing of wet sanded prevents these, they always form. I'm wondering if this caused by the compound (Meguiars M105) or the chromium oxide (black residue during polishing) or just the air it self? Maybe its just a sign of inferior made stainless? I know that when polishing up aluminium that the black oxide that comes off onto the polishing pad can damage the surface causing marring. Only way to avoid is keep using a new polish pad very often. I guess all I can do is try a Metal polish & another grade of SS. Thought Id ask to learn from this if I can. thanks

Yes this will hide the defects well & add an extra level of gloss, at the expense of leaving the surface sticky. Thanks for the info As for polishing the marks off impossible I'm afraid. Any kind of polishing I know of just scuffs latex more because polishing is a form of abrasion & latex is highly flexible & not well suited for polishing like say a car paint job. That's my understanding. As far as I know the glossy side comes from when the latex in liquid form is poured & cooled onto a smooth surface I think.

I brought some black coloured Latex sheet material from a reputable source that sells for fashion & design etc. One side is matte & the other glossy laminated side. After I washed off what looked like talcum powder & rinsed properly, the latex glossy side has a coarse feel to it & sticks to itself like it was glued. But I noticed it's very easy to scuff the glossy appearance up just by rubbing your fingers along it moderately. Does this sound right for manufactured latex sheet? Or is it a sign the rubber is degraded or something? It has been years since I had experience with latex sheet & I can't remember if it's this vulnerable. thanks

I don't see the point in these forums if I could get the same type of replies on a PC gaming forum. Judging by the majority of replies on many threads sadly these forums seem to be all about dropping short useless comments. Why are you here? I have read many topics in physics, cosmology & stuff that is speculative & its simply not fully understandable for most laymen. I will never shorten my questions. A sensible answer as you put it will be useless & won't explain or help.

Ive read up on these topics and still don't think I really understand, if someone could correct me where needed & answer my Q's. Arrow of time. I can't help thinking there still has to be some more fundamental time that always goes one way, otherwise it seems like saying that things that happened could be undone literally so that they never happened.To me if the one way direction of the past to the future is nothing more than physical events happening that obey laws of physics, you wouldn't be able to say something like: 'at any given time one would expect the system to be in equilibrium'. If the arrow of time is a result of entropy increasing does that mean time is really like a block & the future is set in stone like a spacial dimension? As I understand the future is not determined according to chaos & the UP. Can someone explain in a simple way why we don't remember the future & only past? I read its about correlations but don't really get it. They say its possible for the wind to deposit sand into a sand castle but classical this would be impossible as the wind doesn't have hands & what they mean is actually due to the atoms not having definite positions & a small chance of them all being in that configuration from quantum tunneling. Is this correct? Same as a box of gas molecules in equilibrium, I can't see how they all suddenly appear over in a corner lumped together, they always have energy jostling around but not enough to all clump. If it's quantum tunneling that give rise to this, well it's a completely different thing. If you drop an egg on floor, can the event actually reverse straight after? even if so unbelievable unlikely. I can't help to think it could only happen if everything in the future reversed & not just an isolated area & time. As the future events depend on the past. If protons do decay, does this mean in far future no more things can appear from the empty space like brains etc? How will a brain form out of empty space? Just like magic it appears? or gradual with many failures along the way? Does the brain then slowly rot like normal matter? So how does a brain or the big bang get created from the vacuum energy? This seems completely different from something like an ice cube forming in a glass of water.I can understand the water molecules forming ice, but how does vacuum energy or quantum fluctuations form physical things? The energy is almost nothing & in a different form to matter. I don't understand how the universe was considered a low entropy state around shortly after the big band. Since everything was spread evenly in a volume. It seems to me that its really only when stars start to form that its low entropy compared to the distant far future. And what they mean by low entropy is just the right conditions straight after time 0. Like the right gravity, distribution of matter, having inflation, right physical constants etc. I don't see how our current universe was like finding a slightly melted ice cube in a glass of water & not what you would likely expect if the laws are truly time symmetric. Perhaps our observable universe is surrounded by an ocean of brains far out? Slightly off topic, I heard a physicist say QM predicts if you pushed on a wall for such a long time you could tunnel through. But can you say such an event is physical impossible still due to the fact no materials could possible last such long time scales. thanks

Hi. I ruled this out as I stored the piece in a small dust free environment, besides the pinholes are clean & caused by trapped air. The defect goes down pretty deep into the coat something debris doesn't do. My thinking is they are caused by a combination of the brush bristles, & something at the molecular level that happens when the piece is flat/level. also from the surface tension & gravity maybe. I bet if i sprayed this stuff the pinholes wouldn't happen.

Hi. I can say 100% the surface is clean & these pinholes are not caused by contamination. I have tried a few cleaners too, alcohol, wax & grease remover, thinners, just water & detergent & make sure its fully dried. Besides these pinholes don't happen on curved vertical placed surfaces, only flat wood lying level. The substrate is typical hardwood with a few coats of PolyU under it, so technically just a subcoat of sanded polyu. The polyU doe's thicken a bit once both parts A & B are mixed. But still resonable thin & flowing. The manufacturer's only suggestion is to thin to avoid pinholes, but I have done 5%, 10, 15,20 & down to 35% which is far further then their 10% max recommendation. Still always get pinholes.

Thanks, reason I asked is that seemed like such a small % to be mixed evenly in a large body even if it was water. I also have some further questions hopefully you or anyone else could answer. Does high humidity worsen the surface tension problems or have no real effect? Since I'm only getting pinholes on flat level surfaces & virtually none on curved that are vertical. How could surface tension cause them if it does.

Thanks. Do you know roughly how long until that tiny % of 0.2-1 will fully mix with the product?

I have been having a hard time brushing on a 2-part polyurethane woodwork finish clear. First off it is nothing like waterbased or oil based polyurethane clears. The product I'm using is plagued by surface tension problems & no matter what I do I can never get a consistent brush result. I have ruled out many things like: different styles of brushes, range of temp, brushing on thick or thin & even thinning with a supplied solvent up to 30-40%. First example: on flat surface that is level with sharp 90 degree edges, the clear always moves inwards from the edges a few mm thinning right near the edge. Also in this example I always get many pinholes (air that was trapped in the coat & escaped creating a defect) However on a highly curved surface like a 2inch wide dowel, I get virtually no pinholes but I do get alot of dry patches forming (they look like areas you missed with the brush). So it is very hard to get consistent results let alone finish a product. No searching in typical woodwork community is of any help as I think most finishers just spray this stuff. So any help is appreciated. Thanks

I have Natural Latex sheet material that is smooth & some that is also chlorinated so it's friction is significantly reduced. Overall Latex is pretty scratch resistant to things like your fingers, tissue, microfiber cloths running across surface firmly. But after a few hundred passed over the Latex surface while there are no scratches, the appearance is dulled a bit for example black latex looks less dark & slightly more grey. But the smoothness doesn't seem to be affected. Why is this? Also I'm trying to find pictures of what the latex surface looks like under a microscope, maybe this will help me understand why exactly latex has soo much friction to the touch. Not sure as on google images, many of the pics look quite different. thanks

Hi, I don't think a blowtorch would give a nice result over a large area. I did think about this, but most torches flame are small. If only I could get to the level of a DVD disc, that is amazing how sharp & perfect. No applicator exists to my knowledge that gives ultra fine scratches on soft plastic. Tissue is the best but on this black plastic it ruins the finish probably from too much friction, pressure & soo little cut ability like shaving with a blunt razor & causing irritation. Don't know to be honest. It's got to be the worst cheap rubbish they use. You read my mind, I just thought about that as at least it will be durable.

Pretty much all black plastics found on consumer appliances that I have tried to polish to a high gloss fails pretty bad, at best the results are inconsistent. Unlike many clear plastics, which are pretty easy. I usually do a two step method by hand , 1- compound w/coarse foam pad, 2 - polish w/fine foam pad. It's usually the polish process that causes visual flaws with any significant pressure & duration. You can't just do one pass to get the fine scratches out. Long before they come out, the appearance is ruined. Finally, why is it that the plastic looses it's chemical resistance to isopropyl alcohol? And even watered down iso. Normally when new the black plastic will handle the isopropyl alchol, but when polished, the surface gets slightly damaged with what look like stains that don't come out. thanks

The plastic is pretty clean & leaves no visible anything on clean surfaces in short term, something has to be actually coming from within the plastic, but all my reading online tells me that the amount of chemicals would be minuscule. The static field explanation doesn't hold up, it could not explain how this plastic leaves behind an imprint that if left over times gets harder to get off. Dust & stuff doesn't do that, I had glass sheets in a room for 2 years & they accumulated a hard layer of dust that came off with paper towls & water. And the space between the plastic & glass is mirco & there is virtually nothing but a bit of air. I believe the patterns are caused by the static & shape of the plastic while the actual stains are continually coming from within the plastic.

I didn't clean the plastic as it looked clean & is food type plastic wrap. Should I be cleaning it or is cleaning it causing the static fields? At first I thought, but not really sure. I have some Glass & LCD screen surface that stayed in contact with this plastic in an almost air tight dry environment for a few months & these shapes & patterns were difficult to get off & I needed to use alcohol & rub hard, simply running water did nothing. After a year or more on some plastic surfaces in an air tight environment these marks are permanent with only an abrasive polish removing them & some areas of the surface the patterns are actually visible like dried up faint water marks. There is very little air & dust if any when these items were stored in contact with plastic. Not sure what all this means & really wan't to know. Thanks