willferral

I've read that some types of cab [ cellulose acetate butyrate ] with a high level of butyryl can be soluble in alcohol. Not actually a natural resin but made with cellulose so it's pretty close. For actual natural resin ,Shellac of course is soluble in ethanol alcohol. I think some types of copal also are, they dissolve quicker than the shellac. Also the modified Rosin Fumaric Resin [ not sure if you would consider it natural] it' seems pretty close to me, it is soluble in alcohol and dissolves super quick in my experience.

I can't find a lot of information on the toxicity of it, but what there is like on the link you gave shows it being very low toxicity. I mix ethylene glycol with hydrogen peroxide and Iron (II) Sulfate? Is it simple to make like Urea Formaldehyde, or does oxidation involve something else? If it's complicated or requires special equipment to make than it is beyond my ability.

No, I was looking to make a formaldehyde substitute.

Anyone know how to make Glycolaldehyde? thanks

Anyone know if it is possible to make glyoxal that is clear without any yellow color in it?

^Thanks , but wont that turn white? I need it to be clear and to be mixable with ethanol? It is sold as a liquid resin such as Cymel nf 3041, but they only sell to manufacturers.

Anyone know how to make this? Not the kind for glue but for varnish that is clear and miscible with various solvents. I can buy Glyoxal and Urea, but can't seem to find anyone who sells Urea Glyoxal.. Thanks for any help.

Thanks for the link I've thought of making my own as it's hard to find these resins for sale, except as ingredients or in powder form in glue, but the resin in the video is a white paste, I need a clear resin and that formaldehyde solution I assume has water in it? I think the water would make it not usable in a shellac ethanol blend even if it was clear? I've actually got a very similar thing to what I'm looking for it's a product sold as a shellac hardener, it's Melamine formaldehyde i think it's in butanol also with extra formaldehyde, but it has a phthlate plastizcer in it which I don't want. Do to the Phthlate I'm not going to use their product its also absurdly expensive. The product is mixed with shellac, looks nice, but not as good as a nitro lacquer Imo, is easy to apply, again not as easy as a nitro lacquer, but since it's almost all ethanol solvent it's usable almost anywhere without stinking up my apartment.

Thanks.. that cleared it up for me.

sorry I meant evaporate not dissolve

If multiple solvents are mixed together with different evaporation rates will they evaporate together all at the same rate or separately? For example if Butyl Acetate has a evaporation rate of 1. and Acetone has a evaporation rate of 6.1 and ethanol at 1.7 and they are mixed will they evaporate at a uniform rate or will the acetone evaporate first? If I add a slow drying solvent as a retarder such as Diacetone Alcohol with a .12 evaporation rate will it slow down the evaporation of all the solvents or will they evaporate at the same rate and just whatever amount of Diacetone Alcohol I added will be left behind? This is assuming all the solvents are miscible and mix together well. Thanks for any help.

After looking into this it looks like this chemical is sensitive to temperature and moisture.

I've used flakes in the past, some were better than others, but they all eventually worked. I bought bleached shellec for the first time, and had a hard time finding it and ended up buying it from overseas. It arrived in the mail in a ziplock bag with shellac written in felt marker on the bag. I put the powder in alcohol over night tried it and it just wont dry. From what I've read on google is that bleached shellac doesn't last as long as regular flake shellac and can go bad pretty quick.

I'm trying to buy some polycarbodiimide to use as a crosslinker as an alternative to polyaziridine. From what I've read they both work in a similar fashion. My problem is I can only find it as a waterbased crosslinker with about 60% of it being water. I want to use it with a solvent which wont mix with water.. Would it be possible to remove the water from it? I was thinking of heating it up and adding a solvent that wont evaporate at waters boiling point like xylene.. or maybe mixing it with Isopropanol and freezing it and then removing the frozen part? I'm not a chemist and I don't know the freezing or boiling point of Polycarbodiimide... Assuming it has a high boiling point or low freezing point and that I could do this, would this damage or change the polycarobdiimide? My other question is Is Polyaziridine still toxic after it has reacted with a resin and cured? As I can find that mixed with a solvent ready to go. Thanks for any help.

I tried testing it with shellac but the shellac I bought was bad and didn't dry, so gonna have to stop the testing for now.

I tested it again, with the dried finish that i put on non stick paper it was cured less than a week, but the stuff that I added acid to dissolved slower than the non acid in acetone.. I had mixed the Laropal with watco brushing lacquer in about a 70/30 ratio of solids.. I didn't get the results I was looking for with the finish curing in the jar like I thought a 2k would give, and the cured finish didn't get noticeably harder[ more brittle], but Maybe I am getting a reaction? I'm gonna try playing around with different percentages of catalyst. The stuff with the catalyst still dissolved pretty quick, but the non catalyst seemed to dissolve almost instantly.

Sorry I play electric guitar on high gain. I'm not super picky in regards to tone of a instrument finish like if it were an acoustic.. I like the feel of shellac on my hand I like a product called post catalzyed shellac but I want to use it over white and his product has amber color, I'm gonna use bleached shellac. A 2k auto polyurethane like used on the majority of electric guitars is near indestructible and will not wear though from normal use. I have had no wear issues with the Post cat shellac product I used which is basically a conversion varnish with shellac in it.

I had not thought of it already being fully polymerised. I thought that was the process of joining the formaldehyde with the urea? Or maybe fully cured is what it is? Typically when a Urea Formeldhye resin gets catalyzed with an acid it becomes solvent resistant. This Laropal one dissolves in just about anything which is why I like it, I can use ethanol which is fairly low toxicity and it dissolves almost as quick as nitro, but I'm concerned my sweat will burn through it as 1k topcoats have not been strong enough for my usage which on musical instruments and it gets a lot of wear... I want to mix with shellac based on this recipe I found online https://patents.google.com/patent/US3215655A/en and was hoping to use laropal instead of regular Urea Formelhyde which I'm having a hard time finding and also not need aromatic solvents which give off really strong fumes is a major factor. I was gonna try sulfuric acid which is used in the making of Laropal, but I would probably be wasting my money buying it, lol Thanks for any help

^ Thanks.

Hi, I have some laropal A81 which I want to use in a varnish. It is a aldehyde resin synthesized from urea, isobutyraldehyde, and formaldehyde. I'm wondering if I could catalyze it similar how to Urea Formaldehyde is used in varnish and catalyzed commonly with a acid catalyst. I've tried BENZENESULFONIC ACID, 4-METHYL in an amount based of what was used in a conversion varnish product based on it's content of solids of Urea Formaldehyde and it had very little effect possibly making it softer. It certainly didn't cause a curing other than by evaporation which you would get with a catalyzed varnish . I tried Phosphoric acid at a much higher amount than would typically be used and it resulted in discoloration and much softer finish .. Does anyone know if this type of resin can be catalyzed and if so, with what? I've tried contacting the manufacturer but they are an industrial supplier and hard to get ahold of. I hope this is an appropriate question for this forum? As I'm obviously not a chemist, but I thought I would give it a try, thanks for any help.