elementcollector1

Make it into boron?

I would go with Suxamethonium, using different compounds seems the way to go. Apart from that, not much help I can give.

Looks like I'll have to borrow the school's table router. Thanks for the help!

I've heard that when fiberglass is cut with regular saws, etc., it tends to crack and chip. Is there another way to get a better cut on this? I have a fairly large sheet of Plaskolite that I'd like to cut into a variety of pieces.

Never mind about the tetralin, I figured out how to make some from a guy who's done this before. "There is also a published synth using sodium in ethanol to reduce naphthalene to tetralin and then on to decalin. I've actually run this reaction, and yields are a lot higher using a neutral (decane) hydrocarbon with naphthalene dissolved in it, adding sodium, and reducing with ethanol." Now to find some old mothballs, or something... And also figure out a synthesis of t-butanol.

Well, that's good news. So, about ordering: Does Sigma-Aldrich sell to individuals? If so, does anyone know shipping charges? EDIT: Total Price for 2 items: $44.60 + shipping Sigh...

Well, first, I don't know what an 'analytical standard' is. It could be a diluted solution in water, for all I know. As for my purity threshold, I'd like it to be on the low end at least 90% plus (which is in consideration quite low). Does S-A sell to individuals?

On Sigma-Aldrich, the lowest price for the napthalene is $26.80 and t-butanol goes for twice that, t-amyl alcohol not far behind. Not my favorite pricing, but then again, is this 'analytical standard (Fluka)' worth checking out? It's plenty cheap, something like $18. Which leads me to doubt the purity or amount sold. Still, many thanks for finding at least a possible source of these, even though it's Sigma-Aldrich.

Or just electrolysis of NaCl alone, the hydroxide ions from water will bond with the Na+ ions.

Actually, electrolysis can be done by the hobbyist. (not sure if YouTube allowed) Gives the basic setup.Connect the carbon electrodes to a 12V car battery, and this should run fairly fast, and leave you with a much purer product. I've tried both, and I can affirm that electrolysis is the better way to go unless you want to try something like NurdRage did It's pure because the magnesium never mixes with the potassium metal formed, but requires some odd materials.

I'd like to know if anyone can point me towards a good source of these pure chemicals: tetrahydronapthalene tertiary amyl alcohol (2-methyl 2-butanol) OR tertiary butanol (2-methyl 2 propanol) Thanks in advance!

Can I purify the Oxalic Acid found in Bar Keeper's Friend? It's about 5-10% oxalic acid.

Actually for pure sodium it's probably best to use electrolysis. The magnesium method leaves the sodium horribly impure. Then again, potassium seems just fine... https://sites.google.com/site/energeticscribble/preparation-of-metallic-potassium Again, plenty about this metal is dangerous, so precautions are needed.

Right, but do those have low melting points? (i.e. blowtorch temp or lower)? Plaster is actually a great idea now that I think about it. I've heard of people melting Legos into desired shapes, and Legos are made of ABS plastic.

I don't exactly have the tools to do that. Perhaps just igniting it might be enough. Or melting it?

Right, but the hesitation is because Ca could be dangerously pyrophoric as a powder. EDIT: The polishing powder I have is NOT ceria, it is Tripoli. Luckily, I made some ceria on my own. Would this be better to convert to the hydrated chloride or leave as the oxide?

I'd guess H2O2. "Someone else's time?" "materials you wasted?" Brother, I'm experimenting with my stuff, not someone else's. I paid for everything, and do this in my free time. Even if I do get a precipitate containing both metals, then it would still be in the (III) oxidation state. If that's true, then I can probably just re-dissolve in HCl or H2SO4. Again, no matter how much speculating is done on whether or not it will work, it all comes down to the actual experiments, which I'm perfectly willing to sacrifice my materials and free time to do. Now, it's just a matter of coming up with the easiest way to do it.

Right, right, now I remember. So, what you're saying is I'd get a group of Nd-rich precipitate and Pr-rich precipitate, purifying the Pr by oxidizing it to PrO2 (if that works) and separating by acetic acid (if THAT works), and purifying the Nd if necessary. It's not really needed because I can fairly easily find a Pr-free magnet, so I guess the Pr would have priority here. EDIT: It looks like I might have a bit of trouble with spacing as well. EDIT #2: Acetic acid does NOT work. Also, to convert the Pr(III) oxide to Pr (IV) oxide, temperatures of at least 600 degrees Celsius are required (fairly easy with a blowtorch). Should turn black or brown, presence of another oxidizer such as KClO3 helps.

Please explain. When did the oxide crystals form again? John, no offense but you seem to be a bit pessimistic about this. It might not work, but it'd be great fun to try.

I do have some polycaprolactone (Friendly Plastic) but not nearly enough to supply my needs. @CaptainPanic: I do? The hobby props are probably going to be somewhat mass-produced (i.e. maybe 4-5 castings total), but I'm hoping to keep things cheap. As for plexiglass, it seems like a maybe. MP is low enough, but where can I find a good source?

I'm trying to remove the vocals of a fan-made song for a school extra credit project. Inverting the right channel is not working at all. Is there any better way for this song? (Song is attached)

See http://www.instructables.com/id/Hey-an-introduction/, and especially http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Portal-Turret/. I need something that's able to stand heavy wear and tear.

It seems OOMOO is the best way to go. As for the plastic being casted, it's probably going to be ABS or something.

I need some help getting started with casting plastic parts for some hobby props I'm making. Could anyone direct me to a nice walkthrough, or answer a few questions? Also, not sure if this is the right forum for this, so if there is one, please move it there. Q's: - How do I make a mold box? -What basic procedure can I follow for casting plastic parts? (these are going to be fairly large, anywhere from 2 inches to 2 feet and a variety of shapes) -What materials are recommended? (best mold, best plastic for casting) All help is appreciated.

A lot of different chemicals needed for that... are there any current common applications of osmium? I know one is in osmiridium fountain pens, but those things are more expensive than pure samples of both elements.