elementcollector1

My best guess would be to dissolve the percarbonate in lukewarm water, then chill overnight. Filter the insoluble contaminants, and you've got a slightly stronger, somewhat alkaline solution of H2O2. Well, that's odd. Bacquacil is apparently Polymeric Biguanide Hydrochloride, which has nothing to do with H2O2. It's an oxidising agent nonetheless, but no mention of H2O2 anywhere in the MSDS. MSDS: http://www.poolquip.com.au/msds/Baquacil.pdf

The easy solution: add aluminum foil. It'll fizz a lot if there's still some HCl in there, but eventually copper metal will start precipitating. Copper metal can then be filtered out and kept as a cool souvenir, or disposed of. It should be about as dangerous as a wire (although who knows with powder?).

The ratio is 1:3 (nitric : hydrochloric), respectively. Your chemical equation, taken straight from Wikipedia: Au (s) + 3 NO− 3(aq) + 6 H+(aq) → Au3+(aq) + 3 NO2(g) + 3 H2O (l) andAu3+(aq) + 4 Cl−(aq) → AuCl− 4 (aq). Condensing all that down into this reaction:3 HNO3 + 4 HCl + Au -> 3 H2O + 3 NO2 + HAuCl4 Using this handy-dandy website (http://theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/MSP/BalanceReactions), we can now conclude that for every 100g of gold, you will need 96 grams of nitric acid (or 136 mL at max concentration) and 75 grams of HCl (or 236 mL at 31.75% concentration). That would make for about 372 mL of strong aqua regia for every 100g of gold.I hope that helped, and remember: Aqua regia is nasty stuff! Use as many safety precautions and protections as you can, nothing short of gloves, goggles, labcoat, and it would help immensely to have a fume hood (or just do this outside).

... Yeah, I haven't had a 'real' earthquake in my lifetime. Lots of drills, though. I did a quick search on Sciencemadness and found the following: 15% H2O2 is 'typical' for me by the freezing method but 20% is doable. Example, 2 large bottles of 3% peroxide: Open and drain half the contents of each bottle into 2 other STERILE and clean bottles of similar capacity. If possible, just use 2 empty peroxide bottles. Stick the 4 half-filled bottles in the freezer and leave for at least 12-24 hours. After the contents are COMPLETELY frozen solid, turn them upside down (in the freezer). Make sure they're capped well and don't let them warm up (leaving the freezer door open too long, etc.). Have a clean, sterile plastic or glass bottle handy with a small funnel. Every hour or so, quickly remove one bottle at a time from the freezer but keep them upside down. Carefully uncap and pour the contents of the cap into your container. You'll typically only get a few drops at a time.Read up on hydrogen peroxide safety! WEAR GLOVES AND GOGGLES. Make sure everyone in your house knows what you're up to. That way, the Mrs. or kids don't knock the containers over or get 'stung'. DO NOT PLACE THE FULL BOTTLES IN THE FREEZER. I also ran across a few sources on the hundreds of forums about H2O2 that said heating gently under vacuum can get you to ~17%. I wish either of these methods got to 30%, but don't we all. Also, "35% is available in nursery stores and greenhouses for use in hydroponics... It's kinda expensive, at least where I am, but I bet it would still end up cheaper than freezing 3%.. Also search for "bacquacil"" http://www.sciencema...d.php?tid=15881 is another good forum to read. You can test the strength of the peroxide by measuring how much pain you feel when pouring it on your fingers! XP But seriously, don't try that.

Sodium sulfate is poorly soluble in water at 0 C, just 19.5g / 100mL. Also, if this does make HCl, wouldn't the bulk of it come off as a gas if the reaction rate is strong enough? If that's the case, just lead it into water with a funnel on the end of the lead tube to prevent suckback. Does NH4Cl really form a 'mist'? If that's so, how does one collect it from HCl and ammonia? Recrystallize on a cool surface is my guess...

So, you have aluminum powder inside an aluminum radiator? Get a mild acid and wash it through a couple of times. Vinegar, extremely dilute HCl or H2SO4, etc. These will release gases, which might make pressure an issue (feel free to correct me, because I am absolutely clueless about what goes on inside a car). You want it to be strong enough to dissolve the powder, but not enough to start eating your radiator (which is semi-protected by an oxide layer of aluminum anyway).

Did you try Amazon? So, what's the iron iodide for? I've never made or seen this compound before.

Looks like someone's trying to solve a homework problem. There's a section for that.

I've had my own experiences with heated H2O2... not fun. However, that was at about 300 C on a stoveplate, and I had no clue about the dangers. 95-99 C wouldn't boil the water, it would basically evaporate it at an elevated rate. If you're worried, lower the temperature: This slows things down while being safer in terms of sudden decomposition. I've had to wait for months for certain topics to get replied to... In fact I just received a reply email a few days ago, about a query I had sent over a year ago. Things like this happen...

Hf and CaCO3, hmm? It would work, but if I had to make some, I'd prefer using NaF and CaCl2 to avoid... well... the obvious. And because the only place for me to get NaF is the same place where I can obtain CaF2, why bother? Darn. Iridium's good stuff, I have to use sparkplugs (infinitesimal amounts, high price. Joy.) Added! And might I say that I'm not quite as uneducated on the dangers of chemistry as most college students. Which isn't much to claim, considering what I've seen at my school so far.

Darn. Just got my ignition mix today, but college has started as well. Will also have to find some CaF2. This might be delayed a little longer.

Surprisingly enough, yes. For a few years at least. I had some lumps of Ca myself, and I kept them in their original plastic container (not filled with argon or anything) for about half a year, and they were just as shiny as ever. The main thing is to keep them dry and safe from reactive gases. Eventually, I ampouled my Ca anyway. Now, turnings could be somewhat more reactive than lumps, so a tight container with not much air space is recommended until you get an ampoule and a good torch or Bunsen burner. Good ampoules can be made from disposable glass pipettes. Be careful, though: Molten glass is not friendly. Use gloves and eye protection, and wear long clothing to avoid being burned too badly. If you're worried about your turnings, yes, I would store them in oil too. But mineral oil, at least in my case, has the annoying tendency to escape its container and give the surface an oily film. So, wrap it in a paper towel or something, and keep the vial upright. 10 g of pure Au? That's a fairly large amount. Where's it coming from (and who's paying for it)?

If I were God, I wouldn't have any of this "I'm up in Heaven, and you're not". I'd live on Earth, giving a helping hand whenever necessary (though using god-powers rarely, thus teaching you little humans better solutions), and generally answering whatever random question is thrown at me. I wouldn't have any 'church' or place of worship to muddle things, and generally I'd insist on just being an augmented human that's here to help (and party). If I had to make rules, they'd be the basics. Don't steal, lie, murder, cheat, rape, etc. Do help those in need, do a good turn daily, do something useful, enrich your mind and body, etc. The Seven Deadly Sins? I don't know, I might take out the Deadly in the title and replace it with... ... shoot. Fine, we'll keep the Deadly even though they don't kill you (directly). Also, what would the scientists do in order to explain me? I'm in the Universe, and yet I don't follow its rules. There'd probably be a scientific uprising against me, or some person would come up with some ridiculous theory that explains my godliness. (Maybe because I was so very clean?) Has anyone ever considered that if one claims to be a god and starts working miracles, hundreds or even thousands of protesters would show up at the door claiming that you were, in fact, Satan? And you'd have to somehow get through them every morning? On the other end of the spectrum, there are those who would do anything to worship you, even if you say, "Okay, that's creepy. Stop, please. STOP." Again, I wouldn't allow worship of my majesty. Too risky. Apart from that... I don't know. As the years wore on, and turned into centuries, I might get bored of being God. Then I'd probably start trolling the citizens. Then, once that got boring, I'd probably just pass the title along to someone else, someone who really wanted to help but couldn't on his or her own, and die like a regular person. The end.

Again, you very lucky person. And where, pray tell, do you find your hoard of iridium?

Well, anyway... If it's stainless steel, I'd expect the chromium to oxidize if the Fe did. Then, chromium (III) oxide reacts with strong NaOH to form hexavalent sodium chromate, Na2CrO4, which is soluble in water and has a bright yellow color. I use a pretty standard Dewalt cordless drill, with a bit size of 17/64. Malformed? How so? It works fine for me. If you wouldn't mind a search on YouTube, the title is "How to concentrate Hydrogen Peroxide from 3% to ~30%", by TheChemlife. McLendon's is a hardware store in the Northwest U.S. area. Force drying is using the Force to generate heat to dry a solid. But seriously, it's another name for 'heating things on a stove, hoping they don't conflagrate and just dry normally". I typically use ceramic plates for this sort of thing. ...Platinum-plated bowl?! You are an incredibly lucky person.

Posted Today, 06:21 PM elementcollector1, on 22 September 2012 - 11:32 AM, said: H2O2? What does it do, get catalyzed back into water and oxygen? Or does the wool oxidize? With 3% it bubbles vigorously, making heat and rust. With 30% it bubbles VERY vigorously and catches on fire (if any is still dry).Oh, I've got to try that. Free chromium oxide if I boil the rust in NaOH, too. Just tried the magnesium + drill today, and HOLY SNAP, that's a lot of shavings. I got a container very loosely half-full of these things, and they get bigger the longer you drill. I only drilled in a few spots, too, and the holes produced were very shallow. I might have to try this with aluminum... > Mg is easier to shave, in my experience. Don't expect it to be as easy with al. Darn. Still, the thing was a huge success. Even if the aluminum is harder, it should still work pretty well if it's pure. Al poisoning? I heard it was a neurotoxin, but not to what extent. Also, the exposure rate of aluminum in our everyday life is massive, from aluminum antiperspirant to aluminum cookware and much more. Admittedly, powder has some risks of its own, but the Wiki throw for 'health concerns' mostly speaks about how nontoxic it appears to be. The original actor for the "tin man" in the wizard of oz film almost died after using al powder to color his skin like "tin". He failed his entire career because of it.Well that's certainly... interesting... says nothing about that on the Wiki page. Should I physically dry the NaNO3? I have it with sodium hydroxide dessicant as we speak, with little action on the dessicant's part except for clumping together. If I recall correctly, there really isn't enough difference in hygroscopicity to make naoh an effective desiccant for nano3. Try a stronger desiccant, like sodium oxide or calcium oxide (both very dangerous). I still have to reccomend heating the stuff. After all, anhydrous sodium nitrate is much cheaper than sodium or calcium oxide. You could make the latter at home, however. This completely random, but have you ever tried to cut a piece of caesium metal? It's ridiculously soft. About as soft as butter, I would say. Any info about the h2o2?Or what about heating in a beaker on a stove? Force-drying. Microwave, even. I'm just afraid it might catch on fire...As for the H2O2, not really. I haven't found the time, sorry. Also, the McLendon's site doesn't have a product list or search engine, so the only way to find out if that concentrate even exists is to actually visit the store. Might I suggest this video, if you have a hotplate:

...Right... I feel as if I should have thought about that. If I don't know what I am talking about, then it would be better if I spoke up, got corrected, and learned from it rather than if I carried this wrong idea with me all my life, correct? Keeping quiet is often a larger recipe for disaster than speaking up.

Soup can! But seriously, even a glass test tube and a good torch can contain molten alkali nitrates (although I'm not sure about lithium... it's special). If you want a heating element, scrap the nichrome wire from an old toaster or some such, and attach it to the outside of the can.

H2O2? What does it do, get catalyzed back into water and oxygen? Or does the wool oxidize? Just tried the magnesium + drill today, and HOLY SNAP, that's a lot of shavings. I got a container very loosely half-full of these things, and they get bigger the longer you drill. I only drilled in a few spots, too, and the holes produced were very shallow. I might have to try this with aluminum... > Al poisoning? I heard it was a neurotoxin, but not to what extent. Also, the exposure rate of aluminum in our everyday life is massive, from aluminum antiperspirant to aluminum cookware and much more. Admittedly, powder has some risks of its own, but the Wiki throw for 'health concerns' mostly speaks about how nontoxic it appears to be. Should I physically dry the NaNO3? I have it with sodium hydroxide dessicant as we speak, with little action on the dessicant's part except for clumping together.

Mm. Should I stock up on AN then? Ah, the magic of explosives. Fireworks are nice, but unless you're setting them off or 10 feet away, they're not nearly as fun. I hate cutting through magnesium and aluminum to get nice turnings, but I'll try using a drill. That might work better (I've seen someone get quite a lot of good, fine turnings with a wide drillbit). I just hope the metals don't break the drillbit, otherwise I have to pay for a new one. I've seen lab reagent aluminum that was a bright silver powder, and the stuff from Etch-A-Sketches actually stained my hand bright silver for a time. (It was pretty cool, better than paint. Combustible, too!) Of course, the reagent-grade stuff was likely made by injecting molten aluminum through a very fine droplet outlet into argon gas, so it's probably still ultra-reactive and stuff. That NaNO3 is taking forever to dry. Not as long as the MnO2 did, but sodium hydroxide dessication isn't making the thing any less damp.

It might be a while before I go back to the hardware store, but when I do, I'll search for that product. The thermal decomposition of ammonium dichromate was discussed on another forum, but we eventually abandoned the approach as a route to chromium oxide because of the abundance of impurities. Washing the ash with boiling distilled water helped improve the color, but not by much. The way I have to do it is make sodium chromate, concentrate it, acidify and add an alcohol to reduce to Cr(3+), and precipitate the oxide with sodium carbonate (washing soda). This produces a green-gray precipitate, Cr(OH)3, which calcines to the desired Cr2O3. I took a closer look at my aluminum, and under the microscope it's not powder, but very fine turnings. *Sigh* time to bring out the old ball mill again...

Yup. Checked everywhere, no luck. No OTC nitrates here but ammonium, from the local Rite Aid. Haha, 100% HCl. Now that would be fun to work with. Yep. Drain opener, but the point is the same. No aluminum shavings, either. I'll have to go back and check about that H2O2, no idea about the other 70%. No, actually it's pure oxalic acid as wood bleach. Very expensive, but I hardly ever need to use it. Vanadium pentoxide is the orangey-yellow, toxic crap, yes. Chromium oxide is the green stuff that's never pure and annoying to synthesize (raise your hands if you want to work with hex-chrome!) Here's a funny story: I was stocking up on HCl, NaOH, CaCl2 and H2SO4 the other day, and I go up to the McLendon's counter. The woman says, pointing to the NaOH, "You need to be 18 or older to buy that." So my dad, who's there for some rust remover (my fault for working with acids inside the garage), buys it for me. The woman completely ignores the HCl and 93.2% H2SO4. XD Anyway, back on topic, I'm remaking my aluminum powder (but I do need to melt some more aluminum!) This stuff is shiny, not the dull, pencil-streak gray of the previous batches. As for the MnO2, I have 4 ounces of the stuff filling a plastic container to the brim, and I'm assured of its purity (as I made it myself from pure MnCl2), so I'm all set on that end. The CaF2 should be arriving with the ignition stuff any day now, and I prepared some NaNO3 as a backup option.

Live in the U.S., and again, unfortunately no. Don't I wish... The available OTC chems in my neck of the woods are: -Sulfuric acid, 78%-93.2% -Hydrochloric acid, 31% -Sodium hydroxide -Calcium chloride -Hydrogen peroxide, 30% (haven't bought this, seen it once) -Oxalic acid -Chromium (III) oxide, Vanadium (V) Oxide, etc. at a pottery shop some distance away

Nope, no Spectracide here. Instant cold packs, though.

Good to know about that permanganate stain cleaner! I can make potassium nitrate, but I'd be using precious ammonium nitrate... although I don't have much of a use for nitric acid anyway.