UC

The acid in just supporting electrolyte for a battery. Any salt should work, but because chloride ion is fairly corrosive try something like sodium sulfate or trisodium phosphate. I think you'll get a higher voltage out of these cells if you construct something like a copper-zinc cell with copper sulfate electrolyte. That should manage about 1V. Feel free to stack as many in series and parallel as necessary to ramp up the voltage and amperage. This may interest you: http://www.periodictable.com/PopularScience/2007/02/1/Scan.small.jpg

The word you're looking for is methoxy. However, you're going to want to look at your numbering again, unless there are other substituents you didn't mention. There's a way to name that with lower numbers, which is always preferable.

You can buy it. It's the only ingredient in oxiclean or the cheaper knock off store brands. It's nothing but an addition compound between sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. You need a source of either anhydrous or very concentrated hydrogen peroxide to prepare it, so no, 3% won't come anywhere near working.

No, and you have not made any appreciable quantity of peracetic acid either. All you've done is to add an oxidizer that can convert copper metal to copper (II) ions. When you typically think of metals dissolving in acid, the reaction generally looks like this one: [ce] Mg (s) + 2HCl (aq) -> H2 + MgCl2 (aq) [/ce] The metal is oxidized by the acidic proton (solvated as hydronium ion) of the acid, forming a metal cation and hydrogen gas. Copper doesn't work in that reaction. Copper lies below hydrogen on a galvanic series. If you could appropriately apply hydrogen gas pressure to a copper ion solution (good luck), the reaction would actually go backward to make the metal and acid. Hydrogen peroxide and oxygen are both capable of oxidizing the copper metal. They're stronger oxidants than hydronium ion. Notice that no hydrogen gas has formed, but [ce] H2O2 [/ce] is reduced to water. [ce] Cu + H2O2 + 2HOAc -> Cu(OAc)2 + 2H2O [/ce]

So will almost all gases. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas-discharge_lamp I know that chromyl chloride vapor is red, but chances are you don't want a volatile hexavalent chromium compound around. I imagine other colored volatile transition metal compounds behave similarly.

We're going to need more info than that. You mean, in polymers?

That would be because it is spam. Someone is getting crafty. This is the second "online tutor" post recently, complete with links.

It says to not use it for more than a week because it damages tissues it contacts. H2O2 works because it's fantastic at making radicals and oxidizing things. The same reason it kills bacteria is how it kills your cells. The stabilizers are typically small amounts of acidic phosphate salts/phosphoric acid or extremely low levels of stannic oxide, neither of which are vaguely harmful. Food grade H2O2 simply has lower transition metal ion content than cheaper grades. Without stabilizer, hydrogen peroxide rapidly degrades on it's own to water and oxygen gas.

1) google is your friend 2) I prefer acetone for crystallizing aspirin. Buy uncoated, extra strength store brand aspirin. Crush the tablets, add acetone, and place in a bath of hot water somewhere with good ventilation (acetone stinks (isn't great to breathe) and the fumes are quite flammable). If your water was boiling recently and you have enough, the acetone will boil. remove the flask after a minute or two and filter while still hot to remove the binders, which don't dissolve. Do this in small portions so it doesn't crystallize in the filter, if you have a lot. Place the flask back in the hot water between filtering portions to keep it hot if you do this. Place the liquid in a clean glass dish somewhere with good ventilation and cover loosely with thin cloth or paper towel to keep dust out but allow acetone vapor to escape. As the liquid cools and then additional acetone evaporates at room temp, crystals of aspirin grow. They are quite lovely and grow fairly large if you don't disturb the dish.

That would appear to be what is commonly referred to as a typo. The majority of cobalt complexes you will find have a Co(III) ion at the core, and if that - in your equation was actually a +, the +2 charge would make perfect sense. What reference is this from?

The type of crystals you're thinking about, such as quartz, cannot reasonably be grown at home. In high pressure superheated water saturated with a carrier salt, they can dissolve slightly. Part of the reactor tube is kept cooler and there, the material is less soluble and crystallizes out. The solution can then go dissolve more of the crystal in the hot part of the tube. repeat, repeat for a week and you have synthetic quartz. However, as I said, this isn't very feasible at home. One you can try (though you won't be able to save the crystals because they're too fragile) is to mix a soluble calcium salt with a soluble sulfate salt. Filter off the calcium sulfate that crystallizes out, place the liquid in a jar, and let it sit undisturbed. Not all of the calcium sulfate crystallizes out immediately, and long, thin needle-like crystals will separate over the next few days if all goes well. However, this isn't terribly interesting. The water-soluble salts have more or less a monopoly on all the lovely colors.

No such thing as a perpetual motion device (unless you'd like to add energy constantly). You could, I suppose picture a ball moving through a perfect vacuum at a constant velocity forever, but what's the point of that. If it interacts with anything, it will lose energy.

Saponify either olive oil or high-oleic sunflower oil (not regular sunflower oil) with NaOH and water, then acidify the resulting soap. The water insoluble liquid that seperates is a mixture of the fatty acids that made up the oils, primarily oleic acid in the case of the two oils I mentioned. This can probably be used as is for ferrofluid. Instructions for making soap are readily available online. You want to use an excess of NaOH though to ensure complete saponification, while these recipes will call for an excess of oils to make a mild soap for use on skin. This is a handy calculator for figuring out amounts: http://www.soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp Be sure to set "superfat" to 0%, then add a bit extra NaOH on top of what they suggest

Why not utilize the old-as-dirt separation of isomers by crystallization with enantiomerically pure tartaric acid or other suitable chiral resolving compound? One of the salts should be significantly less soluble than the other. I did this in a freshman-level organic chemistry class with 1-phenethylamine and it works quite well. Clearly you don't need something of preparative scale. Recovery won't be 100% of the desired isomer, but it should be quite a bit cheaper than whatever method you wanted to use. Also, http://www.springerlink.com/content/j41636h201010558/ suggests that both isomers do have activity.

It doesn't stick to plastic very well. Especially if the surface is clean and not covered with oxide scum, which might be your problem. As long as it stays solid, any sort of plastic should be fine. In fact, I used a plastic bag to clean mine off, by getting as much to stick as possible and pouring away the molten metal, then wringing out the stuff that stuck to recover clinging metal. I then used a clean plastic pipette to make small droplets of it on a plastic sheet and let them freeze.

That's never been an issue where I am. A few percent of water and a bit of sodium carbonate is to be expected, but otherwise the material is clean if you buy carefully. Most brands have sodium nitrate, aluminum chips, dyes, etc. mixed in. I've been lucky enough to scout out two brands that are nothing but clean white prills, which I mainly use to make soap. If they had significant impurities in them, the oils wouldn't saponify properly and the bars would be greasy and soft. MSDS are always a good place to check before you buy. If the NaOH is caked in the container, it's also a bad idea to buy because a significant amount of water and CO2 has probably made it's way in.

That's what you get for cheating.

Take it from experience, the MnO2 in batteries is calcined and highly crystalline, resisting attack by acids, reducing agents, and almost anything you can throw at it in aqueous solution. One option is to simply finely powder the crude battery MnO2/C mix in a molten sodium or potassium hydroxide fusion with an oxidizing agent like a nitrate. Add very slowly. This will generate a melt of a manganate. Once cooled, this can be dissolved in acidic solution (don't use HCl or you'll get chlorine gas), and adding a reducing agent like bisulfite will convert it to soluble Mn (II) ions (be warned that manganese (II) sulfite trihydrate is a poorly soluble solid, so don't use a large excess). At this point, any remaining graphite (if it survived the molten nitrate) can be filtered off. However, this is *extremely* hazardous and unless you have experience working with molten lye and appropriate safety equipment, I absolutely do not recommend it. It's much easier, cheaper, and less time consuming to find a source of manganese (II) sulfate (used as a manganese source for hydroponics) or potassium permanganate and use that. Manganese dioxide from pottery supply places (used for glazes) is graphite free but is the same calcined difficult-to-use material as in the batteries. I've done the molten lye process before. It was a waste of my time to be honest. For a few dollars you can get more [ce] MnSO4*4H2O [/ce] than you'll ever use. Considering you don't need to pay for sodium hydroxide, sodium nitrate, acid, and bisulfite that way, the prices are probably fairly close.

Have a look around: http://pubs.acs.org/toc/orgnd7/current Or other relevant journal.

By being banned from this forum.

It'll work to an extent. Yeast needs added nutrients to grow properly for any length of time. Most likely he is indeed in for foul tasting slightly alcoholic sugar water. Making proper beer really isn't that hard and is vastly more pleasant. There's all sorts of info available online.

Actually no, with chlorine around, you will damage stainless steel. SS is fine when using sodium hydroxide or sulfuric acid electrolyte, but nothing with halide ions present. I have dissolved samples of stainless steel with chlorine water for example

As i promise,its NOT! and the English physicist, mathemation? Maybe now science Magic=Science four faces.They will show you cant every knowledge,wisdom and THEY ARE FALLEN!

Except that sodium hypochlorite is a nonvolatile salt. Heat and concentration drive the disproportionation to chlorate and chloride and IIRC, it's unstable above about 20%.

Same thing that makes alka-seltzer fizz. Powdered citric acid mixed with an appropriate amount of baking soda. In the cosmetics-making community, they're also the ingredients in "bath bombs."