HELP! Rust Remover Ruined Glass Table

[FallenGod]

Hello, all,

 

I am new to this site, but I have a question relating to chemicals and how to reverse certain chemical reactions. I was cleaning a sword that was rusty with a rust remover chemical. After I was finished, I unknowingly put the napkin I was using to wipe down the blade with on the glass part of my glass table.

The next day, I noticed the napkin on the table and when I picked it up, there was a white cloudy stain on the glass. I've used Windex and other glass cleaners to remove the stain, but the stain always reappears after it drys. Im thinking the rust remover has eaten away at the glass, for the area is a little ruff in comparison to the other areas of the table.

 

Does anyone know, given the certain chemicals in rust removers and the structure of glass, how I can reverse these effects?

 

Thank you

[StringJunky]

Hello, all,

 

I am new to this site, but I have a question relating to chemicals and how to reverse certain chemical reactions. I was cleaning a sword that was rusty with a rust remover chemical. After I was finished, I unknowingly put the napkin I was using to wipe down the blade with on the glass part of my glass table.

The next day, I noticed the napkin on the table and when I picked it up, there was a white cloudy stain on the glass. I've used Windex and other glass cleaners to remove the stain, but the stain always reappears after it drys. Im thinking the rust remover has eaten away at the glass, for the area is a little ruff in comparison to the other areas of the table.

 

Does anyone know, given the certain chemicals in rust removers and the structure of glass, how I can reverse these effects?

 

Thank you

You could try cerium oxide glass polish and buffling pad intended for the purpose on a drill or dremel. Here's a method from an auto site:

 

 

Removal of such marks requires specialist abrasives designed for task - cerium oxide is one such abrasive type, and is found in a few glass correction products. The one used for these tests is Liquid Glass, produced by Rapid Autocare. It is supplied in a kit designed for use with a drill - comes with the polish (very watery) and a couple of rayon pads. A a sponge which I am sure has a use, but not sure what it is yet - was useful for blowing my nose though.

Now, one major concern here is heat. The correction of glass requires a lot of effort owing to its hardness and this can lead to large heat build up. It is important to monitor this very carefully, as high heat can disform the glass, distorting vision and making a replacement necessary. Always be aware of this when glass polishing! Using a drill, if you stay in the same place too long, you will distort the glass - trust me

image: http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/wink2.gif

The techniques that we have been working on for glass involve the use of a rotary polisher, a 2" backing plate (Ben at Carnaubawax Shop has them

image: http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

), and 2" Rayon pads (again, Ben has these, or use the ones in the kit). The pad is primed with the watery polish, and a region of about 6" square at a time is polished as follows:

Spread at 600rpm

Begin to work at 1200rpm, light pressure and maintain this speed until polish well spread to avoid splatter later

Work at 2000rpm, light to medium pressure, slow machine movements for a minute or so

Work at 2500rpm, medium to heavy rotary pressure*, slow machine movements monitoring the heat very carefully until polish starts to dry a little

Finish at 1200 - 1500rpm, light pressure and faster machine movements

* Be very careful not to bow, or break glass with too heavy pressure and at all times monitor the heat. It should never get too hot to tap by hand, perhaps a little too hot to hold for a while.

Read more at http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forumsshowthread.php?36261-Glass-Polishing-by-Machine-Defect-Correction#Qw1peSUX9lLscaLT.99

[John Cuthber]

... Im thinking the rust remover has eaten away at the glass,

Not that it helps much to know it, you are probably right.

Does the rust remover say it contains hydrogen fluoride/ hydrofluoric acid?

[FallenGod]

Hello,

 

Thank you for the replies. The product I used was Whink Rust Stain Remover and it contains Hydroflouric Acid, Denatonium Benzoate and Water.

[Dave Moore]

The cloudiness is etching caused by acid. it must be buffed, which actually removes the affected glass. A single grit won't do, most likely. You would need a swirl pad on an offset grinder or polishing machine (low speed drill type power tool).

Glass is very hard but grits used to polish stone to a mirror finish would work. A local shop that makes granite counter tops would probably give you a small amount of polishing compound for free, or not much money.

Just tell them what the damage looks like. They use different grits.

At this point, any fix will be mechanical. The glass is eaten away chemically but no chemical on Earth can fix it. It has to be buffed out.

There may also be a shop specializing in auto windshield polishing, a way to remove light scratches from glass surfaces. If the piece is transportable, that may be your answer.

Also, itf you do the work, lay down masking tape around the affected area to save making a big job out of a small one.

Edited March 31, 2017 by Dave Moore

[FallenGod]

Thank you so much for the help. I will be sure to do that! Thanks everyone

[StringJunky]

Thank you so much for the help. I will be sure to do that! Thanks everyone

Make sure that it is Cerium oxide in whatever preparation you use... it's the finest.

[Phi for All]

!

Moderator Note

Moved from Speculations to Chemistry.

[arc]

If the final result is not to your satisfaction and you are thinking of replacing the glass. You might try etching the entire surface area with an even acid etching. You may get a surprisingly pleasant result.

 

Years ago we did some work in a new retail storefront where the new wood casement surrounding the area we were working had not been sealed yet. We had used a damp cloth to wipe down the neon sign we installed and inadvertently dripped water on the exposed wood below. The general contractor made quite the scene over the fact that it would leave permanent water stains that would show through the final finish.

 

I waited until he was gone on an errand and wiped down the entire casement with the same damp cloth with an even pressure and speed. By the time he had returned it had dried and looked as good as it did before . . . . . . . I water stained the entire surface.

[John Cuthber]

Covering the whole table in HF is getting into teh realms of a serious health hazard.

[MigL]

Even cleaning the sword, I would hope nitrile or neoprene gloves were used.

HF is pretty nasty. It may not necessarily burn, but is absorbed, and can affect your bones.