iNow Posted May 13, 2018 Author Posted May 13, 2018 That’s badass, Mordred. On the bushes you’re extracting, hooking a chain to them and pulling them out with a truck, tractor, skid loader, or ATV is the way to go. Works well for stumps, too... and is really rewarding / fun.
Mordred Posted May 13, 2018 Posted May 13, 2018 Section is too tight for anything but a come-along tied to a fence grrr
Sensei Posted May 13, 2018 Posted May 13, 2018 (edited) 16 hours ago, Mordred said: Here is the finished product used a light oak stain with an outdoor gloss protective coat Very nice project. Personally I would use electric engine connected to Arduino with some radio transmitter to send information to rotate it left/right from home using remote pilot and have full of water pailful before going outside. Think about it. At least you will have a reason to play with Arduino. You could reuse old bike parts like bicycle chain and sprocket. Edited May 13, 2018 by Sensei
zapatos Posted May 22, 2018 Posted May 22, 2018 Beautiful! Congratulations on a wonderful accomplishment. Your great great grandkids are going to be fighting over who gets it many years from now. Whenever I build something, I write on the bottom when it was made, type of wood, why it was built, or any other interesting details.
iNow Posted May 22, 2018 Author Posted May 22, 2018 3 minutes ago, zapatos said: Your great great grandkids are going to be fighting over who gets it many years from now. One can only hope. Maybe by then they’ll be able to point a replicator ray at it and each have one. 4 minutes ago, zapatos said: I write on the bottom... What do you use? I put my name and the date underneath w sharpie.
StringJunky Posted May 22, 2018 Posted May 22, 2018 16 minutes ago, iNow said: One can only hope. Maybe by then they’ll be able to point a replicator ray at it and each have one. What do you use? I put my name and the date underneath w sharpie. Couldn't you dremel it in? That's really nice. Well done.
Sensei Posted May 22, 2018 Posted May 22, 2018 2 hours ago, zapatos said: Whenever I build something, I write on the bottom when it was made, type of wood, why it was built, or any other interesting details. Make timelapse video while making it the next time..
iNow Posted May 22, 2018 Author Posted May 22, 2018 7 hours ago, Sensei said: Make timelapse video while making it the next time.. Not fully time lapse, but I did take (and post for friends and family) a long set of images from raw wood, through process, to finished product. 9 hours ago, StringJunky said: Couldn't you dremel it in? That's really nice. Well done. Thx, mate. Super pleased with how strong and sturdy it came out. Little things like the trunnels holding my blind tenons into the mortises also make me smile. One last shot, this one with the leaf extensions in: 1
Mordred Posted May 22, 2018 Posted May 22, 2018 Excellent work, very well crafted you don't often see those joints used today but they are solid joints that last years.
iNow Posted May 22, 2018 Author Posted May 22, 2018 5 hours ago, Mordred said: you don't often see those joints used today but they are solid joints that last years Thanks. I agree, and that really surprises me. It makes such a huge difference and IMO is well worth the little bit of extra planning/work. It was important to me to do this right and I pretty quickly decided on this path. I also decided not to use static fasteners when securing the top panel to the base. Instead, I created a channel/groove in the aprons/rails and use Z-shaped clips to connect them. This should allow natural expansion and contraction through the seasons without ripping the wood apart or buckling.
StringJunky Posted May 22, 2018 Posted May 22, 2018 12 minutes ago, iNow said: Thanks. I agree, and that really surprises me. It makes such a huge difference and IMO is well worth the little bit of extra planning/work. It was important to me to do this right and I pretty quickly decided on this path. I also decided not to use static fasteners when securing the top panel to the base. Instead, I created a channel/groove in the aprons/rails and use Z-shaped clips to connect them. This should allow natural expansion and contraction through the seasons without ripping the wood apart or buckling. It's a good thing that you thought about that because flatsawn will move more than quartersawn,
Mordred Posted May 22, 2018 Posted May 22, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, iNow said: Thanks. I agree, and that really surprises me. It makes such a huge difference and IMO is well worth the little bit of extra planning/work. It was important to me to do this right and I pretty quickly decided on this path. I also decided not to use static fasteners when securing the top panel to the base. Instead, I created a channel/groove in the aprons/rails and use Z-shaped clips to connect them. This should allow natural expansion and contraction through the seasons without ripping the wood apart or buckling. Several reasons for that, many are due to most ppl want removable legs for moving and storage purposes. The second being many ppl look for the easier and quick put together methods even to the point of sacrificing solidity. Still if you can do that joint the dovetail shouldn't present much more challenge and dado joints are always easy. Edited May 22, 2018 by Mordred
iNow Posted August 10, 2018 Author Posted August 10, 2018 Holy crap. Apparently I REALLY need to up my game! I built a cool table for our patio using cedar 4x4s joined by halflap joints with mitered angles. Tried to upload an image, but have hit my limit it seems. Came out nicely. 1
iNow Posted November 24, 2019 Author Posted November 24, 2019 Seems so simple in retrospect, but taught myself how to do Dutchmen this week. They go by many names. I’m calling them butterflies, though.
zapatos Posted November 24, 2019 Posted November 24, 2019 Very nice! And how was that board cut? It looks like a cross section in the middle of a board.
iNow Posted November 24, 2019 Author Posted November 24, 2019 (edited) 42 minutes ago, zapatos said: Very nice! And how was that board cut? It looks like a cross section in the middle of a board. Good question. It’s a piece of walnut. I picked it up recently for about $15 along with a few other seriously underpriced live edge pieces at an antique store an hour away from my house. Based on what I’ve read and the folks I spoke with, most likely they used a chainsaw then took it to the mill. I’ve cleaned out the dead bits, bark, and loose sap wood with a wire brush and spent much of my week between conference calls and while listening to impeachment hearings hand planing it (still haven’t picked up a power planer). Now begins the sanding. In parallel, I’m working a really pretty piece of crotch cherry I also picked up which (as @String Junky rightly told me almost 2 years ago) is quite nice to work with (and look at) and it sands beautifully. Attached here. Next, I’ll try filling the cracks and knots using clear epoxy for the first time. Somewhat nervous, but have been reading a bunch and am sure I’ll figure it out. Once it cures and I sand it down, I’ll seal it all with an oil based urethane I love (Arm R Seal) and attach it to some black pipe to make end tables out of them for our living room. Edited November 24, 2019 by iNow
mistermack Posted November 25, 2019 Posted November 25, 2019 On 5/12/2018 at 9:21 PM, Mordred said: Still digging up bush roots along the side of the house. Yeesh 10 hours digging for three bushes so far.... My procedure is to cut them down level with the soil, and then to spray whatever grows regularly with roundup. That works if you don't need to dig the spot where the bush was. Even works on small Ash trees.
StringJunky Posted November 25, 2019 Posted November 25, 2019 1 hour ago, mistermack said: My procedure is to cut them down level with the soil, and then to spray whatever grows regularly with roundup. That works if you don't need to dig the spot where the bush was. Even works on small Ash trees. If the main branch is thick enough, drill holes around the edge of the freshly cut face (in the phloem which transports stuff down to the roots) and syringe or pipette neat glyphosphate in the holes and cover with plastic sheet of some sort to slow drying. I
mistermack Posted November 25, 2019 Posted November 25, 2019 4 hours ago, StringJunky said: If the main branch is thick enough, drill holes around the edge of the freshly cut face (in the phloem which transports stuff down to the roots) and syringe or pipette neat glyphosphate in the holes and cover with plastic sheet of some sort to slow drying. I Another way is to give the bush a good spraying while it is in leaf with a strong mix, at least six hours without rain before you cut it. Or preferably a day or two before, so that it can transport the stuff down into the roots before you cut it. Even if it doesn't kill it first time, it severely weakens it, and spraying any shoots once they put out leaves will finish it off.
iNow Posted November 25, 2019 Author Posted November 25, 2019 Guys - Just putting this out there, but I suspect Mordred has figured out a solution already in the 18 months since he posted that, not to mention it’s OT
iNow Posted December 24, 2019 Author Posted December 24, 2019 (edited) Finished one of the live edge end tables. I like that it kinda looks like a beetle. Lol Edited December 24, 2019 by iNow 2
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