is it good or bad to clean something made of kind of wood?

[kenny1999]

Some products made of wood are finished with a shiny wax coating that I think it's perfectly fine to wipe them clean by water or other cleansers. But we know that there are also some other products made of wood but they are seen to be without any coating. Is it good or bad to clean such wood products without coating? Could the chemicals slowly get inside the wood can age or wear it faster?

 

[iNow]

Any liquid penetration into unfinished wood surfaces, whether pure water or chemicals of various sorts, will speed deterioration. 

Wood can last a very long time if properly stored and with air circulating equally across all sides, but even minor differences in humidity on the sides (like if one side is pressed against something while the opposite side is exposed) will lead to more rapid cupping and warping. 

Instead of worrying about how to clean untreated wood, recommend instead you wipe it with some quickly evaporating mineral spirits and apply a quality finish to protect it if the piece is important to you. 

There are film finishes like poly, hardening oil based finishes, hard wax oils, e even just an annual application of paste wax would be better than nothing and leaving wood raw. 

[kenny1999]

10 hours ago, iNow said:

Any liquid penetration into unfinished wood surfaces, whether pure water or chemicals of various sorts, will speed deterioration. 

Wood can last a very long time if properly stored and with air circulating equally across all sides, but even minor differences in humidity on the sides (like if one side is pressed against something while the opposite side is exposed) will lead to more rapid cupping and warping. 

Instead of worrying about how to clean untreated wood, recommend instead you wipe it with some quickly evaporating mineral spirits and apply a quality finish to protect it if the piece is important to you. 

There are film finishes like poly, hardening oil based finishes, hard wax oils, e even just an annual application of paste wax would be better than nothing and leaving wood raw. 

Yes, I have a piece of unfinished wood that I really care and have to be used frequently. However, I don't know exactly what kind of wood it is, what is recommended to apply (and is it difficult?) that should do it for most different woods?

[iNow]

That’s a very big question. What will it be used for? Under what conditions?

[kenny1999]

30 minutes ago, iNow said:

That’s a very big question. What will it be used for? Under what conditions?

Not really a big question. I am only asking for what kind of paste/oil is advised to be used with a piece of wood with unfinished surface

Edited March 6, 2023 by kenny1999

[John Cuthber]

17 hours ago, iNow said:

Any liquid penetration into unfinished wood surfaces, whether pure water or chemicals of various sorts, will speed deterioration. 

The wood preservatives industry would not see it that way.
 

[Phi for All]

11 hours ago, kenny1999 said:

Not really a big question. I am only asking for what kind of paste/oil is advised to be used with a piece of wood with unfinished surface

But it's a question that requires more information before it can be answered accurately. "A piece of wood with an unfinished surface" can be treated in many ways, and they all depend on what the wood is being used for. If the wood is outside, it needs a different treatment than if it's inside, right? If the wood is being used with food (such as a cutting board), there are oils and finishes that work better than others and aren't toxic. If the use for the wood involves a lot of friction or pounding, something that does more than seal the wood may be needed.

So maybe you can answer what the wood is being used for, and under what conditions, as iNow asked?

[iNow]

7 hours ago, John Cuthber said:

The wood preservatives industry would not see it that way.
 

Your point is clearly correct. I was imprecise with mine. Thanks for bringing this clarity. 

13 hours ago, kenny1999 said:

Not really a big question. I am only asking for what kind of paste/oil is advised to be used with a piece of wood with unfinished surface

As Phi highlighted already, the answer depends on what it will be used for... under what conditions... will it be hung on a wall and left alone, or will it be used as a bar top with glass bottles and keys and plates of food smashing against it hour after hour day after day? Will it be used as a spoon in hot cooking liquids, or will it be supporting the 2nd story of a house? Will it be in direct sunlight where UV protection is an issue, or in a dark drawer or closet somewhere?

You seem to want to keep this private, which is fine, but if you want a better answer then I'll need you to please ask a better question. I have some experience here and would like to help you. 

Edited March 6, 2023 by iNow

[Phi for All]

10 minutes ago, iNow said:

You seem to want to keep this private, which is fine,

As soon as I read this, the Chanting Monks from Monty Python & The Holy Grail came to mind. How would you finish one of those boards?

[iNow]

4 hours ago, Phi for All said:

As soon as I read this, the Chanting Monks from Monty Python & The Holy Grail came to mind. How would you finish one of those boards?

Smacking the face means board feel matters here.

After sanding to 220 or 300, I’d apply some satin sheen hard wax oil. If, however, it was a very porous wood, I’d first do a skim coat with Timbermate to close the textured pores. Once done, a French style polish with paste wax.

That should feel like butter when smacking the nose/forehead and all without making it look plastic-ey  🪵 😍

[Sensei]

Epoxy resin can be used both for gap filling (if any) and for a protective layer.

 

[John Cuthber]

Note that not all epoxy resins are food-safe.

Essentially the OP's question is like going into a large DIY store and asking "which is the best paint?".
You might get an answer - but it might not be the information you were seeking.

[iNow]

5 hours ago, Sensei said:

Epoxy resin can be used both for gap filling (if any) and for a protective layer.

 

Indeed, it can. Though there’s also tabletop epoxy, deep pour epoxy, the need to use a gas torch or heat gun to remove bubbles, it’s extremely fickle and temperamental when mixing, requires specific humidity and temperature conditions for proper curing, and it’s probably a more advanced process than the OP is ready to attempt given other info we have (also can look plastic-ey)