How is stainless steel product polished usually?

[kenny1999]

How is stainless steel product normally polished?

On Google, I find that there are a lot of different answers. 

What is the most common way for the industry to polish stainless steel product?

Is there any special machine for getting the job done?

Normally what are the price ranges for those machines?

 

[iNow]

Details matter. Ball bearings or big buses? Brushed finish or mirror finish? Thousands of units per minute or one unit per week? There’s no “one right way”

[Intoscience]

As iNow states, you need to be specific regarding the item you want to polish and to what finish. Then you can opt for the best (usually the easiest that produces the desired results) option for your item. There are also differing grades (quantity ratios etc... of steel, chromium, nickel & other minerals) of stainless so some will polish easier than others.  

[sethoflagos]

On 6/18/2023 at 5:31 AM, kenny1999 said:

How is stainless steel product normally polished?

GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND GRIND buff buff buff

On 6/18/2023 at 5:31 AM, kenny1999 said:

Is there any special machine for getting the job done?

Many. This is a typical medium duty one for an industrial workshop.

 

On 6/18/2023 at 5:31 AM, kenny1999 said:

Normally what are the price ranges for those machines?

From whatever a decent domestic power drill costs these days upwards.

 

Consider looking at taking a training course in basic metalworking first. It is REALLY easy to lose an eye or a finger with these things if you get it wrong.

[iNow]

53 minutes ago, sethoflagos said:

From whatever a decent domestic power drill costs these days upwards.

Benchtop grinder with polishing / buffing wheels (or wire wheels to start if it's really bad) also works. 

[StringJunky]

Work through increasing grades (higher particle-density) of abrasive until you reach the level you require. Japanese waterstones are pretty good if you want it to be flat as well.

Edited June 28, 2023 by StringJunky

[Intoscience]

11 hours ago, sethoflagos said:

Consider looking at taking a training course in basic metalworking first. It is REALLY easy to lose an eye or a finger with these things if you get it wrong

Yep, I'm a victim of a 9" pedestal grinder. Lost part of my thumb when I was 18, it happened so fast I had no time to react. My thumb was a mess, luckily I can still use the remaining part to grip things and I don't have much trouble other than a bit of maintenance keeping tidy the tiny bit of nail that persists on growing out the side of it. Oh... I do get the odd phantom itch in the missing part which can be frustrating.

So good advice! It's easy to get caught out even if you are experienced, so never get complacent and get the right training.    

[iNow]

4 hours ago, Intoscience said:

I'm a victim of a 9" pedestal grinder.

Yikes! Was it just that it wasn't bolted down properly, or maybe the pedestal shifted / fell while in use?

[Intoscience]

15 hours ago, iNow said:

Yikes! Was it just that it wasn't bolted down properly, or maybe the pedestal shifted / fell while in use?

No all was good, though back then there was a more lack luster approach to health & safety. I'm in no doubt it was entirely my own fault, just a lack of concentration for a moment. Though one could argue that if the guarding was up to modern day standards then the accident may not have occurred, but that is just if's, but's and maybe's. 

I was de-burring a load of pipes that I had cut to length and somehow as I spun the pipe against the grinder wheel the pipe snagged dragging my thumb into the wheel. It was just one of those freakish accidents that can happen when you get complacent. 

The strange thing is that since the accident I have used these types of machines many times since, and weirdly when I do I have this (luckily controllable) urge to grab the grinder wheel.

Edited June 29, 2023 by Intoscience
spelling

[StringJunky]

2 hours ago, Intoscience said:

No all was good, though back then there was a more lack luster approach to health & safety. I'm in no doubt it was entirely my own fault, just a lack of concentration for a moment. Though one could argue that if the guarding was up to modern day standards then the accident may not have occurred, but that is just if's, but's and maybe's. 

I was de-burring a load of pipes that I had cut to length and somehow as I spun the pipe against the grinder wheel the pipe snagged dragging my thumb into the wheel. It was just one of those freakish accidents that can happen when you get complacent. 

The strange thing is that since the accident I have used these types of machines many times since, and weirdly when I do I have this (luckily controllable) urge to grab the grinder wheel.

I have a one-speed grinder, which I want to change to to variable speed water-bath type. I want to match the speed to the item as think it will be safer and less likely to scorch the metal.

[iNow]

8 hours ago, Intoscience said:

It was just one of those freakish accidents that can happen when you get complacent. 

I know those freakish accidents well. Appreciate the extra insights into your experience. Sorry that happened ✌🏼

[sethoflagos]

11 hours ago, Intoscience said:

It was just one of those freakish accidents that can happen when you get complacent. 

Guess I'm fortunate that all my stainless polishing needs (trumpet valves mainly) are quite adequately met by Duraglit. Well-over 50 years regular use and no freakish accidents yet, touch wood.

Edited June 29, 2023 by sethoflagos

[StringJunky]

For polishing to mirror, after you've been through the grades, Jeweller's Rouge (iron oxide) or cerium oxide paste or powder

[Mordred]

 One detail I should add stick to the same direction while grinding or polishing. 

[StringJunky]

10 minutes ago, Mordred said:

 One detail I should add stick to the same direction while grinding or polishing. 

If you do that, it isn't necessary to go to a full polish, I think. I like an in-line satin finish.

[Mordred]

It certainly makes it a lot easier same rule applies with sanding wood for vanishing.

[sethoflagos]

1 hour ago, StringJunky said:

If you do that, it isn't necessary to go to a full polish, I think. I like an in-line satin finish.

I was told to rotate the workpiece 90⁰ at every grit change. Different set of objectives perhaps. 

[StringJunky]

3 minutes ago, sethoflagos said:

I was told to rotate the workpiece 90⁰ at every grit change. Different set of objectives perhaps. 

Going alternately perpendicular probably helps the job go quicker.

[iNow]

7 hours ago, Mordred said:

It certainly makes it a lot easier same rule [of sanding in same direction along with the grain] applies with sanding wood for vanishing.

Unless using a random orbital sander and some good quality mesh sanding pads. In that case just don’t focus too long in one spot and be sure to vacuum dust from previous grits with the brush attachment on a shopvac 

[StringJunky]

2 hours ago, iNow said:

Unless using a random orbital sander and some good quality mesh sanding pads. In that case just don’t focus too long in one spot and be sure to vacuum dust from previous grits with the brush attachment on a shopvac 

A random orbital sander cuts across the grain.

[iNow]

And results in a smoother finish IINM

[StringJunky]

7 minutes ago, iNow said:

And results in a smoother finish IINM

If you want to fill the grain with dust, then maybe so. Cabinet makers use scrapers. It depends how much you want the grain to 'pop out', I suppose. I don't think you get chatoyance with orbitals.

Edited June 30, 2023 by StringJunky

[Intoscience]

14 hours ago, iNow said:

I know those freakish accidents well. Appreciate the extra insights into your experience. Sorry that happened ✌🏼

Thanks,

It was so long ago now, I don't really think about it much these days, only if someone enquires.