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Posted

The stuff is breath of the bitch goddess Disaster, I'm tellin' ya. Not a winter goes by that I don't hear of someone severely damaging a car, snow-blower, or power sled mill with it. Use with extreme caution.

Posted

Hmmm... I think i`ve found 2 things that maybe causing the startup problems, I took the motorhead off yesterday and inside was a sticky oil(ish) substance, alot like Honey, there`s only one place that could have come from, the Crank casing!. I tilted the engine right back when I filled it with fresh oil, it must be sucking some of this up, so I`ve poured the excess out (it`s done it`s job anyway).

secondly and this is a real pain in the proverbial, the Intake Valve isn`t seating as solidly as it should on the compression stroke, at full compression I can still turn the valve head :(

when I`m feeling brave, I`m going to have to strip it all right the way down and check the valve seating spring and the cam geometry, something I`m REALLY not looking forward to.

Posted

Your rings are gone, that's why you have oil in the cylinder, if the valve wasn't seating when the engine was running, good chance the seat was burned, or warped.

 

You have a BIG o'haul in front of you

Posted

well, I`ve stripped the thing down entirely now! all oil bled off from the sump, crank case opened and revealed all it`s little secrets! ;)

 

the valve cam geometry was 100% perfect, the tapits were fine and valve springs too, it basicly came down to an extended valve stem.

not having a valve spring compressor tool I did the next best thing, took the cylinder head off and cycled to fuel intake valve open to max and wedged it with plastic.

then cycled the cam some more to release the tapit pressure from the valve stem base (giving me clearance between them), I just filed off about about 1/32" from the valve stem, cycled the cam back to intake, pulled the plastic wedges out and checked it.

 

Budda Bing! the seating`s perfect and now the compression is almost impossible to turn by hand!

I also took the opportunity to clean out the crank casing and put Fresh oil in at the correct level this time (I can`t beleive in hindsight I was so stupid to think more oil in there = Better!).

turns out it`s Nothing to do with pistol rings (I checked those too) but when OVER filled with oil, the valve stems have a overflow bleed that goes into the air filter/choke section of the carb, it tries to BURN the excess, hence the honey like gloop :(

 

 

oh well live an learn, and believe me, I`ve learned alot today!

 

only problem is, although it NOW has a few less problems and the exhaust is 100% "Clean", it`s still a B!tch to start! with maybe only a 30% improvement.

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