jelowry87 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Posted June 3, 2013 Would a thin layer of heat resistant/fire proof carpet work? Like something very very thin. I dont think it would get as hot as the plastic by any means.
EdEarl Posted June 3, 2013 Posted June 3, 2013 Some carpet is made of plastic or similar synthetic fiber.
Doremi* Posted June 5, 2013 Posted June 5, 2013 Hey pwagon thanks for the response. The material that I am looking to work with is on the lines of plastic polypropylene. The product needs to be sturdy, not bend, and about 1/2 inch to 1 inch thick. I want to shape this product into an oval shape and be able to have it sit on hot 195 degree metal for at least 10 minutes without the bottom getting hot. I want to be able to easily pick the product up from the bottom without burning my hand or any warmth at all. Having this product shaped in the right heat resistant material would be very ideal but also if there is paint that would last a long time under 195 degree circumstances would be great as well. Any Ideas help and I am open to suggestions. I suggest if you use a Bakelite.
jimmyjammy Posted June 9, 2013 Posted June 9, 2013 Hey everyone, I have a project that I am working on and I am in search of any material that is completely heat resistant up to about 150 degrees and does not change form, if there is such a substance out there. If anyone knows if there is a good heat resistant pant out there that would be awesome as well. Glad my title is grammatically correct...are* Thanks, -Jason- CPVC(chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) or PP(polypropelene) or LDPE(low density polyethylene)
Dakukaruma Posted March 21, 2016 Posted March 21, 2016 So hey guys i'm slightly confused as what sort of relatively cheap materials i could use in my Foundry project the names Ceramic,Graphite and refractory all pop up i have explored all of these thoroughly and have concluded that graphite is very efficient for being able to withstand heat and refractory materials are good for insulation but i seem to struggle with picking an appropriate material to make the "Outer Shell" of the foundry (Furnace) Out of Any ideas or heads up ? ((Keeping in mind I'm only 15 and aren't the most intelligent being on earth))
J.C.MacSwell Posted March 22, 2016 Posted March 22, 2016 Fibreglass reinforced plastic, also known as glass reinforced plastic or just plain "fibreglass", can be fabricated to resist temperatures above 200 degrees F even in chemical environments. Generally a vinylester resin or isophthalic polyester resin is specified depending on use.
Enthalpy Posted April 4, 2016 Posted April 4, 2016 So hey guys i'm slightly confused as what sort of relatively cheap materials i could use in my Foundry project the names Ceramic,Graphite and refractory all pop up i have explored all of these thoroughly and have concluded that graphite is very efficient for being able to withstand heat and refractory materials are good for insulation but i seem to struggle with picking an appropriate material to make the "Outer Shell" of the foundry (Furnace) Out of Any ideas or heads up ? ((Keeping in mind I'm only 15 and aren't the most intelligent being on earth)) Hi Dakukaruma, Graphite is generally used as a good heat conductor, not insulator. I also suspect it to dissolve in liquid iron and possibly more molten metals, making them very brittle. You could check what materials are used in a blast furnace. What metal or alloy do you plan to melt? Tin and lead are easy, aluminium is reasonably feasible, copper and its alloys are already difficult and iron much so, because of the necessary temperature.
gerry@kilometers2miles.com Posted December 26, 2020 Posted December 26, 2020 I mold Lexan (polycarbonate film) in my Vacuum forming table which I built. I have made molds out of a product named MOLD MAX 60. It's used in the film industries (movies) for molding thousands of props. It's made by SMOOTH-ON and has heat resistant tendencies up to 560 F. A question: why are you heating something up for 10 minutes???? What substrate are you trying to form? I've run numerous thicknesses of plastics and the most I've had to heat it for is about 1 minute. Once I see movement in the plastic (about 30 - 40 seconds) I turn my vacuum on (which sits below the mold) and leave the heat (mounted 3.5" above the mold) on for between 5 and 30 seconds, with the vacuum on and it forms around my mold. I just noticed the date of your post, not realizing it was 2013. Will post anyway.
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