What type of soldering iron should I use as a beginner?

[vitality00]

I am going to attempt to make my own circuit using a printed circuit board

 

 

I was looking for soldering irons on-line and they have it classified as such

 

-heavy duty soldering iron

-medium duty soldering iron

-light duty soldering iron

 

 

and also they have different wattages which i do not understand its benefit or disadvantages (30w, 120w etc)

[Danijel Gorupec]

I use a soldering iron often, but I had no oportunity to try many varieties, so I am not considering myself most experienced.

 

To work with electroncis (especially if you intend to do mostly SMT) you need lighter soldering iron. Those large ones are for soldering sheet metal or pipes... The important thing is that some soldering irons will sense its own temperature and will adjust the power in order keep the tip temperature constant; some other (cheaper) soldering irons will always provide the same heating power and thus the tip temperature will much depend on if you are soldering a small piece or a large piece.... I would say that, roughly, you should aim at about 30W range - Larger than 50W might be unpractically large, while lower than 20W might not be able to generate high-enough temperature when you are soldering large wires.

 

A good tihing, but not a must, is if the soldering iron has the ability to slightly adjust the tip temperature (not all solders melt at the same temperature). Note again that some cheaper soldering irons might only provide ability to adjust heating power, not the temperature..

 

Another important thing about a soldering iron is the quality of its tip (bit). Your soldering iron might come with several tips - but it better to have one good tip, than 5 low-quality ones, IMO. What I also find nice, is when the soldering iron has flexible power cord (possibly heat-resistant).

 

Because you are a beginner, I would recommand to aim at middle, or lower-middle price range (certainly not the lowest price range).

 

In addition, you will need to buy some solder. This might be as important as the soldering iron. I feel happy when I can work with leaded solder - lead-free solder is a pain.

 

Also buy yourself a good desoldering pump (solder sucker) - a mechanical pump with a spring. Aim for good ones because cheap ones are worthless.

 

I hope that you will receive some other opinons here.... and I am a bit ashamed you didn't receve hundrets answers already as some other much less practical and real-life relevant questions we see on this site.

[davidivad]

you can get away with a cheapy for a few buck if it is just a once in a while thing.

if you solder all the time you want to control the temp better. you would need a station.

 

here is a cheap station.

i would try around the hundred dollar mark though.

weller is a good name brand.

Edited November 7, 2014 by davidivad

[Enthalpy]

If you plan to use your equipment often, as a future professional or a regular hobbyist, buy quality right from the beginning:

- If not right now, you'll invest in it later, and abandon your first buy

- Bad equipment is more difficult to use hence discouraging.

 

Where I live, professionals consider only Weller, though other manufacturers can be good, and meanwhile Weller also sells a few bad irons. The one on Davidivad's picture looks good, of for instance item 131338672317 on eBay (paste the number in their "search" area, observe the picture, buy where you want). Pay attention that the tip is pressed axially and not by a radial (=at the side) screw: fundamental for the heat transfer. I got mine from Conrad for 60€, not really cheap, but still a bargain.

 

A set of interchangeable tips is not really necessary. Any decent tip must be covered with a layer that resists corrosion: I suppose it's nickel.

 

For a printed circuit, 30W is a common choice. The regulation is comfortable because the iron is ready quickly, but it's not vital; 60W keeps then good for printed circuits and more capable elsewhere. A tip fine enough is paramount for electronics. A holder where the iron aims downwards saves time but isn't vital and can be purchased separately later. A sponge is necessary and can be any natural sponge, absolutely not the plastic things used for dish washing, silicone things are less good.

 

I see no reason for low voltage (24V) at a soldering iron.

 

If you put this together, you arrive naturally to the suggested soldering station, but this isn't a necessity.

 

----------

 

Do not use a desoldering pump nor a desoldering iron, gun, station... They destroy the printed circuits. The proper way is a desoldering braid - not exactly cheap, but some sources are less expensive. The ones covered with a white metal (I suppose tin) are far better than the usual ones of bare red copper.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desoldering

 

The EU forbids Sn-Pb solder in professional equipment (RoHS directive). That's nonsense because the present stuff solders nothing. Stick to Sn-Pb and nothing else. 63%Sn is slightly better than 60%; additional 2%Ag is too expensive; soldering flux in the solder wire is absolutely necessary; for printed circuits, have a small diameter.

 

You'll probably need wire cutters (side cutters for electronics). The good ones are expensive from renown manufacturers, pity. Look for short and sturdy blades.

 

To remove the insulation from wires, I've already had all options... Do not take any automatic thing. The ones that work look like scissors, have zero adjustment nor mecanism, and bear a few dents of varied depths that you select for the present wire. It's also the cheapest construction, nice. These ones (need 2 series of diameters) (the ones I have) are excellent: items 361075372407 and 201212686986 on eCreek, while less good grips make it cheaper: 270959890315.A slightly different construction like item 141183498487 on eCreek could be good as well, but I haven't tried it.

[Danijel Gorupec]

The EU forbids Sn-Pb solder in professional equipment (RoHS directive). That's nonsense because the present stuff solders nothing. Stick to Sn-Pb and nothing else.

I somehow hope that you are from EU because then I would know that I am not all alone here thinking the same.

[Sensei]

Somebody making PCB often should rethink buying soldering dip, soldering pot/bath

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dip_soldering

 

They start at 50 usd here.

 

Are you really sure you need PCB?

 

Most of time, when current and/or voltage are low, breadboard is better solution, if you're not planning selling it. (there is no problem replacing broken part)

 

In any case breadboard should be used first to investigate whether circuit is well designed.

 

I am making PCB when current is too large, and breadboard is starting melting (which you can smell).

Edited November 7, 2014 by Sensei

[Enthalpy]

Depending on what support and interconnects you use, and what kind of circuits... breadboards are inadequate for many electronic functions because of electromagnetic interferences. But a Veroboard with a ground plane works in many cases.

 

It looks like the blue boards there

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard

 

Has someone here tried pot soldering for single units? I fear random results and long learning time. Up to now, I've seen individuals and companies solder by hand even for 20 identical circuits, and jump to wave soldering for >20 circuits, often at subcontractors then.

I somehow hope that you are from EU because then I would know that I am not all alone here thinking the same.

 

Yes, from the EU, and I say lead-free solder is nonsense because it solders nothing. Since users don't chew their electronic gadgets, which are later recycled because of gold, I don't care about solid lead in them. And at the same time, the EU accepts fluorescent light-bulbs that contain gaseous mercury, which users inhale when the bulb breaks - as toxic, and with a path to the organism.

[Boustrophedon]

As a long time teacher of electronics I must disagree about Weller soldering irons, their ergonomics are rubbish, Antex are better, are available in a range of Wattages (power?) and with temperature control. Also the bits don't drop out like they do with the afore mentioned brand. Just my two penny worth.

 

For quick jobs I still reach for my Portasol gas powered iron, much smaller lighter and heats up in seconds.

 

I have to declare that I have no connection or interest in any of the companies mentioned.

 

I have to agree with the comments about solder, good old Pb/Sn is the easiest to use and the flux fumes are less annoying, they still need extraction though. I have had problems with commercial products soldered with lead free solder; a WV dasboard voltage regulator and a boiler control circuit board. Both failed due to embrittlement of the lead free solder. Both worked flawlessly for years after the old solder was removed and good ole lead ton used instead.

[MigL]

I've soldered on computer motherboards ( even laptop ones when my eyesight was better ) with a 150/300 watt soldering gun.

The technique is more important than the tool used.

Pay attention to what you're doing, and if you learn or already know proper technique, you should have no problem with a cheap 30-50 watt ( grounded ) soldering iron. There's no need for temp control unless you're soldering for hours at a time.

 

And as others have mentioned, use the finest rosin core lead/tin solder you can find.

I myself use a desoldering pump, but have on a few occasions lifted the trace right off the circuit board.

[Klaynos]

I do odd bits of soldering for Arduino projects. I've just bought myself a pretty cheap iron from Amazon. The tip size might be important depending on what you're trying to do. There's lots of videos online.

 

Most of what I do at home is pins through holes with the occasional link, they take seconds. At work we've a more professional set up which does make the difficult small jobs easier.

 

Therefore, my advise would be to not spend too much unless you've got some tough job or it's going to be a frequent activity.

[StringJunky]

This is the best; no electricity needed so you are not tied to a plug socket.

 

[Enthalpy]

As a long time teacher of electronics I must disagree about Weller soldering irons, their ergonomics are rubbish, Antex are better, are available in a range of Wattages (power?) and with temperature control. Also the bits don't drop out like they do with the afore mentioned brand. Just my two penny worth.

 

Nonsense.

The Antex have their tip around the stem, a basically wrong design.

Weller never loose their tip. Used by about every professional like me. With temperature control obviously.

 

An electronician would never say "wattage".

Sorry Boustrophedon, you're a propagandist, nothing else.

[imatfaal]

!

Moderator Note

 

Enthalpy - cut out the personal attacks. Opinions differ.

 

 

Nonsense.

The Antex have their tip around the stem, a basically wrong design.

Weller never loose their tip. Used by about every professional like me. With temperature control obviously.

 

An electronician would never say "wattage".

Sorry Boustrophedon, you're a propagandist, nothing else.

 

 

 

 

[Boustrophedon]

I was commenting from long experience of using both makes. Weller are heavier for the same power than Antex. Antex have shorter elements putting control from your fingers nearer the tip. The tip fell out of my Weller soldering iron repeatedly. These are all facts except the last which is anecdata; your soldering iron may vary.

 

So why is having the tip round the element better than having the element round the tip?

[Enthalpy]

Most professionals use Weller because they're better: the butt tip has no play, conducts heat better - and no, it doesn't fall off, that would be known by now.

 

Even if cabling for >8 hours a day, I've nothing to complaint about the weight nor the ergonomy of my Weller.

 

I'm an electronician for >40 years now, the comparison among soldering irons is perfectly clear. The colleagues that recommended them to me had already >20 years experience before.

 

The faults you allege amount to "buy a mini Cooper, because the Roll's wheels fall apart". Sorry, that goes against common experience and is not credible.

[John Cuthber]

"An electronician would never say "wattage"."

Exactly when did the word "electronician " pop up in the English language?

 

Not everyone needs (or can afford) a Rolls, and it's not unreasonable to complain about their weight.

 

"The EU forbids Sn-Pb solder in professional equipment (RoHS directive). That's nonsense because the present stuff solders nothing."

It works fine when I use it so the problem is clearly not with the solder- it must lie elsewhere.

Any suggestions?

 

In my (humble ;-) ) opinion, anyone who thinks that one soldering iron is best is just as wrong as someone who thinks there's only one good song.

 

re. "Most professionals use Weller because they're better: the butt tip has no play, conducts heat better - and no, it doesn't fall off, that would be known by now"

Who says it isn't known?

 

"I JUST bought a Weller WM120 soldering pencil. Took it out of the package and the tip fell out. I put it back - it falls out. It fits VERY LOOSELY in the barrel of the soldering pencil"

from

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WM120-120v-Pencil-Soldering/dp/B0000WT586

Edited April 10, 2015 by John Cuthber

[Sensei]

Month ago I have been watching YouTube video reviews about cheap USB microscopes to use to zoom-in soldered area on the screen of computer monitor.

 

If you're interested here are they:

 

 

Especially this Tagarno looks pretty cool. Except few thousands usd price..

 

 

[Bill Angel]

This young woman is learning to solder at the National Electronics Museum near Baltimore. Perhaps a soldering expert can identify what kind of soldering iron she is using.

[Boustrophedon]

Given the colour of the box I would guess it's a Weller.

 

Re: The faults you allege amount to "buy a mini Cooper, because the Roll's wheels fall apart". Sorry, that goes against common experience and is not credible.

 

The faults I "allege" are facts. They are heavier, they are more cumbersome, the tips do occasionally fall off. Some Rolls Royce.

 

Come to think of it, very like a Rolls, looks ugly, is big, heavy and unwieldy. You don't buy a Rolls-Royce for a learner, do you?

[Enthalpy]

"I JUST bought a Weller WM120 soldering pencil. Took it out of the package and the tip fell out. I put it back - it falls out. It fits VERY LOOSELY in the barrel of the soldering pencil"

from

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WM120-120v-Pencil-Soldering/dp/B0000WT586

 

That one holds the tip by a side screw, exactly what must be avoided. He who buys such an iron, whatever the brand, shall not complain.

 

It's a disappointment, of course, that Weller markets such things now. But I saw recently properly built Wellers for 20€ at Conrad, so there's no reason to take a bad iron.

[...] You don't buy a Rolls-Royce for a learner, do you?

 

Just like music instruments, good professional tools are easier to use, and if buying first a worse one, the user will need to change later, having bought one too much.

 

In the case of soldering irons, a Weller and its butt tip (other brands do it as well) has a better thermal contact than a surrounding tip, and less play. This helps beginners as well.

----------

 

Look how the screw that holds the tip surrounds it:

http://www.aes.org/sections/pnw/solder/weller_wp35.jpg

the tip passes through a hole at the screw, and has its bottom wider than the screw's hole.

 

The tip cannot fall away through the screw.

I've never seen such a screw go loose, nor even heard of that.

Edited April 14, 2015 by Enthalpy